So its almost a wrap and most of the reviews are in..........LFW finally ended up cranking it up a notch or two after being resolutely dull for the last couple of years. Having said that some collections left one wondering whether designers should have actually bothered showing. First up was the disappointment of the week -the man himself - Tom Ford. Rather dull unimaginative collection......still basking in the limelight of his 90's collection for Gucci. Everyone wanted to say it but only few dared say it....the collection lacked lustre. So the super exclusive collection which bore strict instructions to not twitter or take pics proved useful as no one broke a nail or strained a wrist to catch a pic of the collection or make any amazing comment on the collection. Off course the Guardian (Jess Cartner Morley) and the Telegraph (Lisa Armstrong) were overtly gushy about the collection but then again hardly anything meaty in their reviews....not sure either would tell if a seam was pressed well or not! Don't get me wrong I think the man is clever but hardly a design genius...more a clever marketer and one who knows how to whip the masses into a frenzy if not through the raunchy campaigns then through another heady scent concocted in the bowels of Estee Lauder's headquarters. His good with creative direction and sells a dream/lifestyle well but this collection was hardly fashion forward nor as strong as his previous ones.
THE BAD:
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
Pringle of Scotland - Any bets as to how long the current designer (Alistair Carr) stays in that position? Really bothers me when the essence or the intrinsic heritage of a brand is completely disregarded. Can no one learn from Burberry? Totally weird cuts and combinations of fabrics. Even more irritating were the pants which had odd contrast inserts.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
Nicole Farhi - All the gals suffering with body dismorphic disorder are in for a treat this season. Sure there were one or two pieces which were interesting in terms of shape but nothing we have not seen at Balenciaga or Balmain.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
Richard Nicoll - Choosing some French movie from the 1960's as inspiration may be seen to be very clever and convey the impression that one has an appreciation for cult cinema however for a movie (L'Enfer), that was deemed incomplete, this collection just bored me to death. Who with any sane mind is adding this into their buying input for Spring/Summer 2012? Cool soundtrack to the show though!
The good parts are on the next installment!
