FASHIONISTA

LONDON FASHION WEEK - THE BAD

2011-09-19T14:09:00.000-07:00

So its almost a wrap and most of the reviews are in..........LFW finally ended up cranking it up a notch or two after being resolutely dull for the last couple of years. Having said that some collections left one wondering whether designers should have actually bothered showing. First up was the disappointment of the week -the man himself - Tom Ford. Rather dull unimaginative collection......still basking in the limelight of his 90's collection for Gucci. Everyone wanted to say it but only few dared say it....the collection lacked lustre. So the super exclusive collection which bore strict instructions to not twitter or take pics proved useful as no one broke a nail or strained a wrist to catch a pic of the collection or make any amazing comment on the collection. Off course the Guardian (Jess Cartner Morley) and the Telegraph (Lisa Armstrong) were overtly gushy about the collection but then again hardly anything meaty in their reviews....not sure either would tell if a seam was pressed well or not! Don't get me wrong I think the man is clever but hardly a design genius...more a clever marketer and one who knows how to whip the masses into a frenzy if not through the raunchy campaigns then through another heady scent concocted in the bowels of Estee Lauder's headquarters. His good with creative direction and sells a dream/lifestyle well but this collection was hardly fashion forward nor as strong as his previous ones.

THE BAD:

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Pringle of Scotland - Any bets as to how long the current designer (Alistair Carr) stays in that position? Really bothers me when the essence or the intrinsic heritage of a brand is completely disregarded. Can no one learn from Burberry? Totally weird cuts and combinations of fabrics. Even more irritating were the pants which had odd contrast inserts.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Nicole Farhi - All the gals suffering with body dismorphic disorder are in for a treat this season. Sure there were one or two pieces which were interesting in terms of shape but nothing we have not seen at Balenciaga or Balmain.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

Richard Nicoll - Choosing some French movie from the 1960's as inspiration may be seen to be very clever and convey the impression that one has an appreciation for cult cinema however for a movie (L'Enfer), that was deemed incomplete, this collection just bored me to death. Who with any sane mind is adding this into their buying input for Spring/Summer 2012? Cool soundtrack to the show though!

The good parts are on the next installment!

MILAN FASHION WEEK - BACKSTAGE GUCCI & SELECTED LOOKS

2011-02-24T03:26:00.000-08:00


Love the double handbags!

THINGS WE LOVE THIS MONTH!

2010-12-13T08:07:00.000-08:00

Here are some of the things that we adore this Christmas....

1. Ralph Lauren Scented Candles for home. Available from A2 in Cape Town at the V&A Waterfront or from Apsley House in Hyde Park, Johannesburg

2. 'GRACE - 30 Years of Fashion at Vogue' by Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber and Grace Coddington available on Amazon

3. If you are in Cape Town this season try and go to Truth....its a great coffee experience and will possibly never make you want to have another cup elsewhere. For true lovers of caffeine.... You can find this coffee haven at Prestwich Memorial, 1 Somerset Rd, Green Point in Cape Town or at the V&A Waterfront.

4. If you have an Iphone or Ipod then download the Viber app. It will cut your phone bill down this festive season and works well!

5. For the best sun protection this summer try the Anthelios range by La Roche-Posay. Absolutely brilliant product and you can try buying this on Amazon as well as we have not found anyone in SA stocking it as yet!

6. For a laugh and especially for the kids get some Insta Snow. It works wonders. So if you have any friends travelling from the UK pick some up at Harrods or Hamleys!

GAVIN RAJAH HOMEWARE COLLECTION 2010/11

2010-12-07T10:37:00.000-08:00

Available through our studio in Cape Town +27 (0) 21 424 7842/9 or email info@gavinrajah.com

Stone Linen available in 600 thread count extra long staple cotton in satin finish with luxurious embroidery and White Linen available in 800 thread count extra long staple cotton in satin finish with same embroidery design.

WOOL & CASHMERE THROW FOR BEDS

STONE LINEN COLLECTION

STONE LINEN COLLECTION - EMBROIDERY DETAIL

GAVIN RAJAH HIGH SUMMER EVENING COLLECTION - WORLD AIDS DAY BENEFIT

2010-12-03T01:54:00.000-08:00

WORLD AIDS DAY

2010-11-30T22:16:00.000-08:00

Today whilst you are able to enjoy the many pleasures of life spare a thought for children whose lives have been ravaged by AIDS. The millions of children who are missing their parents; their future and everything else children should enjoy.........they miss your voice! Be part of something, anything... that can assist in changing their lives and fighting the scourge of this disease. Gavin Rajah - UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador

GAVIN RAJAH MENSWEAR COLLECTION 2010

2010-11-21T09:13:00.000-08:00

Shot by Jesse Leigh Elford and Model: Piero Puccini from PURE MODEL MANAGEMENT

SOME QUICK PICS AROUND FASHION WEEKS

2010-09-23T22:36:00.000-07:00


Alessandro Dell'Aqua Spring/Summer 2011

Gorgeous Set at Fendi Spring/Summer 2011

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2011 - Beautiful Floral Set

Prada Spring/Summer 2011- Hair

Prada Spring/Summer 2011 - Backstage

HIT OR MISS? ANNIE GET YOUR GUN MEETS SQUAW

2010-09-19T03:08:00.000-07:00

Cowgirls sure had the blues with Ralph Lauren's latest collection......suede and leather fringe featured prominently in the collection. Whilst the usual crisp white shirts were popular in the collection, the jarring metallic accents with the cocoa coloured suede gilets or skirts did not quite inspire me. Broad cowboy belt buckles (with Lauren's signature logo interpreted as a wild west postal stamp) weighed heavy on some of the softer dresses. If 'Little House on the Prairie' was being re-shot then these clothes would be so appropriate. The long dresses with ruffles and delicate floral prints were nothing new nor were the satchel bags that adorned so many of the garments and detracted from the actual silhouette. I loved the use of Victorian lace and delicate thread embroidery holding all the cornelli together. Other then that..........it was disappointing..... The maestro turns 71 next month and whilst the high powered audience applauded the collection the reviews were not as flattering.

Ralph Lauren Spring|Summer 2011

Watch the full show for yourself and see if you agree?

NICOLA FORMICHETTI APPOINTED AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR TO THIERRY MUGLER

2010-09-19T01:29:00.000-07:00

Photo: Will Ragozzino /patrickmcmullan.com

After much deliberation and rumours it has been confirmed that Nicola Formichetti will be appointed the Creative Director at Thierry Mugler. The fashion director of Japan's Men's Vogue will take over from Rosemary Rodriguez who assisted in reviving the line a few seasons back. Formichetti who is also best known for styling Lady Gaga will head a strong creative team but whether he has the savvy required to do this is yet to be seen. It's one thing styling a collection for shoots and its a whole new ball game when the pressure is on you to deliver collections that sell and make a difference to the brand's bottom line. Formichetti said in a press release issued by Mugler that, "Thierry Mugler is about the power of glamour and walking straight into the future", and we certainly hope its not about creating fashion only to be worn by Lady Gaga. The talk in Paris is that people will be paying to look like the over the top star with Formichetti at the helm of Mugler.

Nicola's Protege.....Lady Gaga at the VMA's. She wore a meat bikini on the cover of Vogue Men (Japan)!

Watch Katy Walsh make an appearance on the Tonight Show in a Sushi and Sashimi dress....an ode to Gaga!

GAVIN RAJAH SPRING|SUMMER 2010 CAMPAIGN

2010-09-16T02:39:00.000-07:00

We decided to have fun this season with our campaign. Again we worked with Simon Deiner to create a few visuals which spoke of high glamour, sex appeal and gave people something to talk about.

I chose Elana Drago and Ru Essop from Max models to shoot the campaign with Maxim Budnick as the male protagonist.

The garments this season ranged from swimwear which was very lingerie inspired and had loads of fine lace overlaid in certain sections.

The evening dresses are simple in line but the fabrics are luxurious and sophisticated. We love this degrade paillette sheath dress in our collection.

We had great fun but we chose to shoot on a day that was freezing!

CREATING BEAUTIFUL GARMENTS

2010-09-15T02:06:00.000-07:00

Photographer Simon Deiner shot work in progress at my Atelier.......... I loved the way he captured the spirit and mood of my Atelier.

Photographer: Simon Deiner shot at Gavin Rajah Atelier

TOM FORD LAUNCHES WOMEN'S READY TO WEAR

2010-09-14T08:38:00.000-07:00

TOM FORD BACKSTAGE

It was possibly the most coveted invitation this season and only the those that sat within the upper echelons of fashion were invited to a showing of Tom Ford's collection for women. After a break of 6 years Ford has returned to the stage with a collection of garments that would be best described as immaculately styled with intense glamour. The collection was luxurious with a strong leaning towards the 1920's in styling. Ford used iconic women together with the top models in the world to launch the collection. Beyonce, Lauren Hutton and Daphne Guinness joined some of the most beautiful faces in the world to launch a collection that just about upstaged the entire New York Fashion Week. Hammered gold metal jewellery added to the sleek and tight silhouettes.

What was the pre-requisite to entry at the show? NO CAMERAS! The only person allowed to shoot the collection was Terry Richardson. When asked why he didn't allow cameras to the show Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years, in part because of Internet technology and a focus on celebrities.

“I want fashion to be fun again, like it was in the ’60s,” he said. “You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.”

Having said that Cathy Horyn of the New York Times managed to sneak in a picture or two with her mobile phone

Beyonce at TOM FORD

The collection will not be all that cheap and will range from about U$ 3500 for a suit to U$20 000 for an evening dress. Nothing less expected from the man who brought back the desire to be surrounded by luxury during his stint at Gucci and YSL.

OSTRICHES REIGN SUPREME AT LOUIS VUITTON

2010-09-13T05:30:00.000-07:00

LOUIS VUITTON - Sloane St, London

Isn't strange that we take for granted so many things that are available to us locally? Ostrich skin being one of them. It's obvious Marc Jacobs has taken a liking to this exotic skin and decided to to create a line for Louis Vuitton. Their clever campaign largely driven by the store fronts are witty and captivating.


LOUIS VUITTON - Sloane St, London

LOUIS VUITTON - Sloane St, London

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK - THE MAYHEM BEGINS

2010-09-12T03:37:00.000-07:00

Amongst the various tributes to 9/11 and launch of many tragic retrospectives New York Fashion Week dominated the hype in the city. Whether it was carousel parties thrown by Alexander Wang in a parking lot to Le Bain's after-party on a freezing roof top, the fashionistas were out in full force. I am really not sure whether fashion savvy peeps have become overtly tolerant or fear their demise on guestlists but some of the fashion on show was truly hideous. Whether in the name of art or self expression the clothes just looked like apocalyptic trash or conceptual fashion which will not have a long shelf life. Having said this there was very little intelligent or coherent comment of the actual collections but more hype on who sat in the front rows or who stood behind who waiting to get into a show. For me New York Fashion Week began with a slow and painful start of derivative lines. Let's hope the big punters like Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Caroline Herrera, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Oscar De La Renta resurrect this orgy of bad clothes.

Having said that there was a collection or two, so far, that stood out and are worthy of mention and to me they were Ohne Titel, Alexander Wang and Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti. Ferretti showed a collection that was abundant in colour and fused Oriental and Western themes right down to a new take of the Qipao dress and Chinese rice hats. Beautiful prints and fine fabrics.

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti Spring|Summer 2011

Soft palettes dominated Alexander Wang with elongated silhouettes that were fluid and somehow reminiscent of Rei Kawabuko's work.

Backstage at Alexander Wang Spring|Summer 2011

Talking about derivative did anyone not see the similarities or are people in NY just oblivious to what other designers are doing in the rest of the world? Z Spoke by Zac Posen was like a new take on Christian Dior's Spring|Summer 2009 Collection (and perhaps even Marc Jacobs?) and even Ohne Titel seemed to have a good bit of Balenciaga going on in that collection.............

This brings me to Camile Paglia's article in the London Sunday Times about Lady Gaga. It was interesting to note that she makes mention of a new generation that lives in a virtual world of tweets, posts on the internet and is consumed with a culture which makes no reference to the past. What of culture, heritage and history and the relevance it has to today's design world? If people are to forget collections from two seasons ago then it makes me think whether 'new generation' fashionistas are indeed slavish followers of icons based on a contrived presence........do they have any real sense of what's good or not in fashion or are they manipulated robots made to applaud on command? Is it any wonder that the USA has an average intelligent quotient of 98?

THINGS THAT MAKE ME CRINGE!

2010-09-11T05:56:00.000-07:00

ANTLER ALICE BANDS FROM TOPSHOP

FOX ALICE BANDS FROM TOPSHOP

Is TOPSHOP taking the piss?

Uggs

One word for these things - F ********* UGGLY!

CROCS

I think these must be the most revolting thing to adorn someone's feet!


STICK ON FRENCH PEDICURE

It's bad enough that some women choose to do this to their toenails which gives them an alien like quality but these stick on versions would bring on a serious case of vomit!

CROPPED DENIM SKIRTS

This may be the suitable attire for applying for a job at Hooters but I have yet to see someone look sexy or classy in these

CRACK ADDICT SPOTTED OUT IN CAPE TOWN

This must count as a total a fashion faux pas of note! Stop the madness!

LAGERFELD CANCELS SHOW FOR PARIS FASHION WEEK

2010-09-10T13:32:00.000-07:00

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld canceled his Lagerfeld Pret A Porter show that was scheduled for October 3rd, during Paris Fashion Week. Instead of stressing over organizing the show, the creative director has decided to use the upcoming months to focus on a new collection. The collection, known as Masstige, is based on the idea of “mass elitism.” Masstige marks Lagerfeld’s decision to have a less centralized role in Chanel and to create his own signature commercial line. His new creations will be available online by Fall 2011. Lagerfeld is in the perfect position to create something of his own. Do we sense Karl's possible exit at Chanel to pursue his own interests.....maybe a new creative director at Chanel is in the cards in the near future.........

On another note though, Lagerfeld swore he was not about to make the transition from couture to high street after his collaboration with H&M. Will he be able to seduce and placate the masses with this collection? After all when Apax acquired Tommy Hilfiger (who owned the Lagerfeld brand) they conspicuously left out the Lagerfeld brand in the deal. In fact for a few seasons now he has been limited to designing only menswear. So just maybe Lagerfeld has seen the writing on the wall and has made a concerted effort to democratise his line? I can't help but smile thinking of his comment post his collaboration with H&M:

'They did not make the clothes in sufficient quantities. I find it embarrassing that H&M let down so many people… I don’t think that is very kind, especially for people in small towns and countries in Eastern Europe. It is snobbery created by anti-snobbery.'

Let's hope that the democratisation of his line extends to countries further then Eastern Europe.

Having said that. Lagerfeld not showing, could just mean that the designer would rather focus on delivering a collection that is strong without having to compromise it by rushing into a show......something many designers showing at fashion week in SA could learn from.....

DOLCE & GABBANA: FALL 2010 - GOOD FOR 'JERSERY SHORE'?

2010-09-10T01:16:00.000-07:00

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010 | Vlada Roslyakova, Olga Sherer & Zuzana Gregorova

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010 Collection is now in store in most parts of Europe, UK and the USA but I am not sure that this collection which is totally garish is as strong as their last collection. Leopard print features strongly through out the collection with a strong tendency leaning towards 80's styling and colour blocking. I can appreciate fashion repeating itself but surely the good thing about this is that you can leave the naff stuff out and focus on giving it all a new take. The floral headresses are reminiscent of kitsch Florida bathing caps and the 50's synchronised swimming acts that were so popular at the time. The rest of the collection is made up of the usual nipped-in-the-waist tailoring which I am sure will remain popular this season but it leans more towards gear appropriate for the hunting season.........see the images below and post your comment.

I only had one favourite dress piece in the collection which was a silk velvet draped bustier dress - the rest was disappointing and this was entrenched by the fact that celebrities at the Emmy's wearing Dolce & Gabbana were as rare as the Dodo! This collection is so 'Jersey Shore'!

Dolce & Gabbana Fall Collection 2010


Dolce & Gabbana Fall Collection 2010

Dolce & Gabbana Fall Collection 2010

The dress is the only thing I like in this collection.........simple and elegant in the extreme.

CHANEL OPTS FOR SOME BIZARRE NAIL COLOURS THIS SEASON

2010-09-10T00:28:00.000-07:00

Chanel Nail Varnish

Vogue Fashion Night Out (7th September 2010) saw the launch of Chanel's new range of nail varnish for the season.......not sure how this is going to go down but pretty certain that the puke green one was not the favourite! What do you think?

LACROIX'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR HOPES TO REVIVE COUTURE

2010-09-09T06:59:00.000-07:00

Sacha Walckhoff by Claude Weber

Besides Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, there is no designer in the world with a more enviable/terrifying job than Sacha Walckhoff, the new creative director at Christian Lacroix.

Walckhoff’s been working at Lacrroix in some capacity or another since 1992. He started as a knitwear designer, moving onto diffusion line Bazar, then to jeans, and eventually menswear. In 2000, he left the company full time to consult for brands like Kenzo, but returned in 2003 when Lacroix began spending more energy working on his collections for Pucci.

The Swiss-French designer has been at Lacroix’s side ever since, through the last two years of financial trouble right, culminating with the company filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in May 2009.

It wasn’t until after Lacroix–the man–announced he was breaking all ties with the company, that CEO Nicolas Topiol and Miami, Fla.-based investors the Falic Group asked Walckhoff to come on as Creative Director.

Walckhoff’s first ready-to-wear collection? Menswear, which is funded by a licensee. Women’s pret-a-porter and couture are part of the future, but not the present.

I find this so incredibly brave as Lacroix has never had a strong men's line.......although this does sound like a more commercial range which does not cost as much as the couture did!

Below is a sneak preview of the new collection by Walckhoff.

Christian Lacroix Spring|Summer 2011

DIOR HOMME - JUDE LAW in 'UN RENDEZ VOUS' by GUY RITCHIE

2010-09-08T07:55:00.000-07:00

This edgy video was created for Dior Homme and stars Jude Law and Michaela Kocianova. Guy Ritchie added his direction to the movie. I find the dialogue quite repetitive for this short film and pretty much verging on irritating. The things that some brands do in the name of creativity and marketing is sometimes just bizarre!

Below is the new Spring/Summer 2011 Collection from DIOR HOMME

DIOR HOMME SPRING|SUMMER 2011 by Kris Van Assche

VOTE FOR OUR BLOG

2010-09-07T12:23:00.000-07:00

We hope that you will take the time to vote for our blog by clicking on the icon on the right of your screen. Thank you for all the feedback we have received and the many emails we receive complimenting us on the content. We hope you will continue to enjoy our blog.
With much gratitude, Gavin x

ATELIER VERSACE SPRING|SUMMER 2010

2010-09-07T04:48:00.000-07:00

Atelier Versace Spring|Summer 2010 Model: Kasia Struss

Atelier Versace has opted for Greco-Roman era for their collection - a trend and silhouette that is not new to the Atelier. This season sees dresses made from PVC, silk fringe and metal components custom made and set with a lavish dose of Swarovski crystals. Whilst I like some of the collection I think that some of it is best shot in editorial format and not really all that wearer friendly.......my point when it comes to the blue dress (below) that premiered at the Emmy's and was worn by January Jones (from the series 'Mad Men'). It looked absolutely hideous on her and if anything looked like she was a bird of some sorts ready to take off.

Atelier Versace Spring|Summer 2010 Model: Kasia Struss

January Jones in Atelier Versace - not looking quite like Kasia!

Having said that the next dress is my favourite from the collection and I adore the detail on the bodice which is almost like a jewelled harness.

Atelier Versace Spring|Summer 2010 Model: Kasia Struss

MILAN VUKMOROVIC LAUNCHES TRUSSARDI 1911 PRE SPRING|SUMMER 2011

2010-09-06T06:29:00.000-07:00

Trussardi 1911′s first cruise collection is made for the modern woman on the go. Brimming with leopard and safari-inspired prints, the latest range from creative director Milan Vukmirovic views metropolitan life as a jungle. Armed with accessories made of python and leather, the Trussardi woman navigates the world in loose-fitting garments perfect for summer heat. I loved the subtle touches of ikat, denim and batik inspired African prints!

V MAGAZINE - THE NEW YORK ISSUE

2010-09-06T00:08:00.000-07:00


V Magazine - The New York Issue Fall 2010. Shot by Mario Testino and styled by Nicola Formichetti. In this picture Lady Gaga & Marc Jacobs

V Magazine's New York Issue brings together an eclectic group of people. From musicians to models, Mario Testino shoots a cast of notable New Yorkers including Lady Gaga, Marc Jacobs, Marina Abramovic, Tyson Ballou, Liya Kebede, hotelier Andre Balazs, Jake Shears from Scissor Sisters, Debbie Harry, Lady Bunny, Mark Ronson and Chloe Sevigny. Styled by Nicola Formichetti, each subject brings their own unique style to New York!


V Magazine - The New York Issue Fall 2010

V Magazine - The New York Issue Fall 2010. Entertainer Lady Bunny and Mark Ronson, music producer.


V Magazine - The New York Issue Fall 2010. Lady Gaga & Marc Jacobs

V Magazine - The New York Issue Fall 2010. Model Tyson Ballou and performance artist Marina Abramovic

NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR APPOINTED TO LACOSTE

2010-09-02T13:13:00.000-07:00


Felipe Oliveira Baptista

On September 1, Felipe Oliveira Baptista was named the new creative director of the LACOSTE brand.
The 35-year-old Portuguese designer with a resolutely modern style has all the required qualities to provide a new interpretation of the LACOSTE values, a symbol of casual elegance since 1933.
A graduate of Kingston University, winner of the Hyeres Festival prize and two-time winner of the ANDAM prize, Felipe Oliveira Baptista was invited to join the official Couture calendar in 2005. He has been presenting his ready-to-wear collections at Paris Fashion Week since 2009.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s outgoing personality, his great sense of colour and his undoubted talent to project LACOSTE brand codes in the future will be key to the ongoing renewal of the LACOSTE core sportswear and asserting the identity of new product lines such as LACOSTE L!VE. His first LACOSTE collection will be presented for Spring/Summer 2012.
Heading an enhanced studio, the new Creative Director will serve the brand using his creative vision and contemporary interpretation of the female look, thus reinforcing the position of the collections.
This artistic organisation confirms the announcement made last June of a new group strategy aimed at renewing the brand expression and finding new growth opportunities.

LANVIN ♥ H&M

2010-09-02T13:06:00.000-07:00

WHEN Lanvin LOVES H&M.

H&M is proud to announce that its next designer collaboration will be with Lanvin, one of the most influential brands of the 21st century. Designed by Lanvin’s artistic director Alber Elbaz, and menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, the collection will go on sale on November 23 in around 200 H&M stores worldwide. The collection of both womenswear and menswear will be revealed to the world on November 2, just three weeks before the clothes hit the store, making the launch of Lanvin for H&M among the most anticipated fashion events of the year.

“H&M approached us to collaborate, and see if we could translate the dream we created at Lanvin to a wider audience, not just a dress for less. I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world.” Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin.

the Lanvin for H&M collection will be revealed to the world through a special film which will be launched on November 2. The film will be available for all to see online at www.hm.com. Following the film’s debut, it will be just three weeks before customers have the chance to get their hands on a covetable piece of Lanvin for H&M.

www.hm.com
www.lanvin.com

BALENCIAGA - THE ART OF CONSTRUCTION

2010-09-02T12:58:00.000-07:00

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

A good couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for temperance.” Cristobal Balenciaga

Hard work, respect for tradition, exacting standards standards and a quest for a definitive presence, Cristobal Balenciaga was the purest servant of Haute Couture. Cristobal Balenciaga would spend his entire life exploring the alchemy of clothing and the beauty of couture. At the epicentre of this existence would be his total mastery of art which resulted in the House’s ultimate signature: the simplicity of the cut. This is Balenciaga’s legacy.

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

Balenciaga would put all of his energy into the construction of clothing, painstakingly breaking apart its structure in search of its secrets, like a puzzle continuously reworked and simplified in order to resemble perfection and the simplicity of a single line.

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

Season after season he entrenched this until he gained world notoriety as a genius architect of fashion.

From Cristobal Balenciaga to Nicolas Ghesquière, the space is steeped in an atmosphere both rigorous and whimsical. Between the experimentation of couture and the morale of the cut. In the House of Balenciaga, there is the couturier who obeys the rules of style, but also the artist who embraces the realm of dreams.

www.balenciaga.com

VOGUE FASHION NIGHT OUT

2010-09-02T02:41:00.000-07:00

It's that time of the year again. The Vogue's Fashion Night Out is about to hit all the major fashion capitals in the world this September 2010. It's a truly awesome event that started out in the USA and off course was the brain child of Anna Wintour. It's fashion meets shopping meets charity all in one huge frenzied night. So the dates are set and if you are around the following capitals then brace yourself and put on some relatively comfortable shoes and hit the streets!

Paris kicks the celebrations off!

7th September 2010 - PARIS

8th September 2010 - LONDON & SEOUL

9th September 2010 - SYDNEY, BARCELONA, MILAN & MUNICH

10th September 2010 - MUMBAI/DEHLI, MOSCOW & NEW YORK

11th SEPTEMBER 2010 - HONG KONG/BEIJING/SHANGHAI, TOKYO & TAIWAN

12th SEPTEMBER 2010 - ATHENS & ISTANBUL

You can expect special discounts, fashion shows and limited edition items for sale with the proceedings going to charity. It's a great time to also preview all the new collections.

INSPIRING SHANGHAI

2010-08-29T04:25:00.000-07:00

I have just arrived back from Shanghai which I can only say has been nothing short of inspiring. Meeting individuals in the creative industry has been a truly wonderful experience with the interaction being open and so incredibly full of humility.....something which I find so lacking on South African territory. The energy and buzz in the design world is so tangible and there is a willingness to share information and to collaborate which one can attribute to the reason that it is fast becoming a creative capital of the world accompanied by the fact that China has just been named the second super power of the world.

So here are just a few things which caught my eye in Shanghai.


A brilliant book featuring the work of 30 graphic designers who are all in their 30's!


Furniture by Design MVW


Chen Hangfeng - Graphic Designer

Han Feng

One of the highlights of my trip was reconnecting with a Han Feng - an endearing and seriously talented designer who I had met earlier at the Design Indaba this year. Han's work fuses elements of Chinese cultural themes and motifs but is contemporary and directional. Her recent costumes for Handel's 'Semele' premiered at Brussels La Monnaie Opera House to great acclaim and she is currently working on the costume for Italian opera Misfortune to be directed by Chen Shi-Zheng with music composed by Judith Weir and opening in 2012 at Covent Garden, London.

Costume for Handel's 'Semele' by Han Feng and directed by Amy Tan

MORE TRENDs - Li Edelkoort says birds are the next best thing!

2010-08-20T00:14:00.000-07:00

Birds!

We will continue our journey to connect with nature, but this time with the animals.

As she predicts:

“Our relationship with nature and animals is going to deepen,” predicts Li, whose informative and inspirational seminars outline the styles, materials, colours and marketing strategies that will be important in years to come. “I don’t think trends can get better than they are at the moment.”

On fashion the focus will be on blurred edges and visual texture, reminiscent of soft, yellow chicks. Fabrics will be soft, cuddly and tactile.

Swans - traditionally associated with dancing, will continue to have an influence: that means we will see more lace, tulle and fluttering knits. Water birds will influence the colour palette: expect to see blue, grey and green, with the pea coat taking centre stage as a key item of the season.

Urban birds - colours will be bleak, echoing concrete, and abstract patterns will dominate garments. The healthy, slow lifestyle associated with peasant poultry will also leave its mark: we’ll wear honest clothes in warm, deep colours and vintage prints.

More Inspirations: weaver birds and their nests, with fabrics made from hand-spun yarns. The coloured coats of singing birds will inspire us to wear sophisticated brights, while birds of prey will move us towards powerful neutrals, casual clothes and folk details.

Trends for Biomimicry and architecture beyond 2010, will focus on themes that once again emphasise our yearning for nature:

“My home is my nest”: weaver birds will inspire us – this time to construct “nests” for ourselves in which we use natural materials from our immediate surroundings. We’ll make use of irregular patterns in architecture and interior design, which will echo woven structures. Our nests will be counterbalanced by solid forms.

“My home is my earth”: The use of earthenware, terracotta and brick, already a growing trend, will remain important. We’ll match the colours of our buildings to our immediate surroundings and, as the planet becomes warmer, underground buildings will gain prominence. Irregular, organic forms will be popular.

“My home is my hide-out”: In an effort to reflect and respect nature, we’ll be camouflaging our buildings so that they blend with the natural environment. Our colour palette will be inspired by sandstone, slate, schist, lichen and honey, and glass and steel will be used as a way to reflect natural surroundings.

“My home is my landscape”: Interior landscaping will become a major trend. Taking inspiration from beavers, we’ll position our buildings so that it’s embedded in nature. The colours, patterns and structure of wood will gain importance.

“My home is our hive”: Due to the global population boom, humans are already becoming more interdependent. Architecture will amplify this idea of togetherness, and structures will be strong and geometric, echoing the hexagonal structures of bee hives. Rows will be embedded in design, and our colour palette will be inspired by honeycombs.

“My home is my cocoon”: Futuristic cocoons shapes will influence the architecture of temporary buildings, pavilions and tunnel tents. Structures will be slightly childlike and playful.

“My home is my web”: Spiderwebs are already fashionable, but this trend will be confirmed in years to come. Colours will be light, floating and sheer, and we’ll see buildings that are curtained with reflective materials. Textiles will be incorporated in buildings.

“My home is my armour”: Taking inspiration from armadillos, dark, metallic colours will become fashionable, and metal will become important once again. We’ll also start to see round, circular, spiral forms. Shell forms will come of age.

“My home is my masterpiece”: We’ll use colour, pattern, playful rhythm, cut-out metal and perforation to decorate our homes. Colours will be lively – even slightly crazy – and we’ll use fantasy to enhance the aesthetic of our buildings.

''Now that we have recovered from the worst and are experiencing a new fluidity of movement, the economy and therefore culture will take us to a higher plane for a new and even better perspective. In a positive and optimistic mood, fashion and design will take flight and give us wings on the road to new colors, more texture and exalting creativity'.. Li Edelkoort

OUT OF THE BLUE - SWAROVSKI INSPIRATION AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11

2010-08-19T10:16:00.000-07:00

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

Mystery, silence and serenity. Inspired by the frozen waters of Nordic landscapes, where the horizon merges into the sky, Swarovski’s new Autumn/Winter collection for 2010/11 features minimalist lines which allow the sheer luxury of crystal to shine through.
Nathalie Colin, Creative Director at Swarovski, wanted to go right back to basics this time. Clean lines, simple colours, materials in perfect symbiosis, and at the forefront – crystal. With this collection of evening bags and jewellery, she invites you to travel into an infinite fantasy land and to reconnect with your innermost self. “Each accessory is an expression of inner luxury and revisits the most essential value of today – the purity of the soul. Here, crystal is imbued with the reviving, purifying and sensual virtues of nature’s most powerful elements, such as water in all its forms.”
In this new chapter of the “Beyond Nature” trilogy, crystal adorns evening bags and jewellery in refined, mineral-inspired shapes.

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

The true spirit of haute couture can be seen in each iconic, timeless piece, thanks to the expertise of the Daniel Swarovski line which is applied to this collection. These jewellery pieces and accessories will be sold exclusively in selected Swarovski boutiques worldwide.

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

TRENDS SUMMARY SPRING SUMMER 2011

2010-08-19T08:24:00.000-07:00

Here are some of the key trends for fashion designers and students for Spring/Summer 2011. Whilst there are many other descriptions and a few subsidiary ones these remain (for me) the one's that are key for collections that will be out next Spring/Summer. Would love to have your thoughts on the trends!

TREND 1: FLIP FLOP RAINBOW

Holographic Print

Altuglas

Fibre Optics

Inspirations
Holographic moiré and polarized highlights, striated glass and prismatic diffractions, aluminated highlights and chromatic flickers, distorted shapes and lenticular flip-flops diffract colours in a techno-manga rainbow.
Trend Accents

Polarised transparency
Rainbow shades
Optical illusions
Prismatic highlights
Chromatic shimmers
Hologram moiré

Colours

Frosted Glass
Smiley Orange
Kauaï Pink
Powdered Violet
Rapidograph Blue

Clothing Trim and Details
Rainbow piping, ribbons and braids. Straps and braiding in multicoloured PVC. Buttons, bits and buckles in polarized Altuglas. Chromatic flowers and facetted crystals. Hologram transfers and vectorized motifs. Feather boas in shades of colours. Sulphurated-style glass beads. PVC magnifying glasses and lenticular labels. Flammée aluminium and metallic moirés. Fibre optic cords and braids

TREND 2: SMILEY DRUGSTORE

Clothes Pegs

Pop Art Advertisements - John Clem Clark

Dishcloth Fabrics

Inspirations
Foam blocks and duos of laminated materials, functional simplicity and hints of colour, packaging nets and woven plastics, tea towel fabric and non-woven dusting cloths, play a mischievous game with humble and domestic design.
Trend Accents

Acid treated household plastics
Striped dishcloth fabrics
Pop Art advertisements
Two-tone foam blocks
Micro-relief rubber floor tiles
Quilted waxed cotton

Colours

Laundry Blue
Pop Orange
Off White
Coral Red
Firefly Green

Clothing Trim and Details
Bottle-top buttons and buckles. Clips like multicolour clothes pegs. Straps and ribbons in soft plastic. Printed waxed cotton and fused flannel. Soft plastic lace and net packaging. Foam blocks and “scourer” pompoms. “Soap powder” transfers and labels. Dishcloth fabric and reflective braid. Adhesive tape-style bias and RGB worker tarpaulin. Braided floral prints for housecoats

TREND 3: WONDERLAND

'Phantasmagoria -Visions by Lewis Caroll' by Marilyn Manson

'Two of Hearts' - Katherine Pardue

Gingham Patchwork

Toile de Jouy

Beatrix Potter

Glossopetrae

Inspirations
Retro-kitsch porcelains and glossopetrae, checked plaid blankets, playing cards, lace and flounces like Alice in Wonderland. Garden gazebos and wicker trellis take us through the looking glass to a pop art and surrealist picnic inspired by Lewis Carroll.
Trend Accents

Alice in Wonderland & Lewis Caroll
Cottage Tea Party
Victorian Romanticism
Surrealist Dandyism
Magic Garden

Colours

Powdered Violet
Firefly Green
Laundry blue
Supernatural Brown
Rose Water

Clothing Trim and Details
Bamboo buckles, wicker-style netting. Enameled flowers and toadstools. Porcelain medallions and pottery brooches. Recoloured black and white engraved labels. Straw hat and festooned flounces. Cross-stitch bucolic canvas . Gingham, playing card motifs and Toile de Jouy. Necktie ribbons and lace of model children. Mother of pearl buttons and Beatrix Potter ribbons. Dandy elastic braid and smocked flounces

TREND 4: JURASSIC PARK


Fractalized Photography

Vegetal Lace

Reptilian Skins

Tribal Inspired Tattoos

Inspirations
Strange flowers and green technologies, tribal opulance and eco-cities, chameleon skins and solar energy, fossil amber and organic design, deconstructivism and desert cities announce a new age, an earthy and luxurious future.
Trend Accents

Carnivorous plants and flowers
Desert Eco-towns
Organic design
Fossil stones
Tribal opulence
Vegetal biotechnologies

Colours

Powdered Violet
Dinosaurus Brown
Firefly Green
Seaweeds Fossil Yellow

Clothing and Trim Details
Vegetal lace and honeycombed netting. Fossil ambers and insect inclusion. Semi-precious stones and mineral crystallisations. Reptilian skins and chameleon leathers. Fractalized prints and tribal tattoos. Oversize buckles and metallic enhancements. Armoured bibs like solar panels. Stretch tie-and-dye and mimetic camouflages. Insect embroideries and entomological curiosities. Electroplating and organic resin mouldings

TREND 5: ABYSSES

Radiolaria

Medusa

Mother of Pearl

Gorgon with Medusa Head

Mother of Pearl Shell

Inspirations
Undulating fragility of Medusian organza, protozoan laces and sparkly iridescence, scalloped transparencies and infinite delicacy, floating materials or the gracefulness of invisibility and transparency.
Trend Accents

Coral reef
Undulating transparencies
Mother-of-pearl iridesence
Fossil micro-plancton
Hermaphrodite molluscs
Underwater invisibility

Colours

Coral Red
Pink Light
Frosted Glass

Clothing and Trim Details
Cowrie shells. Rag(cotton) paper. Gorgon laces and medusan organza. Jewel buttons and ornate Venetian glass. Radiolarian flowers in quilted jersey or PVC. Coral jewels, starfish and sea shells. Milky transparency and iridescent sequins. Sea anemone fringes and translucent silicon. Coatings and macroscopic structures. Asymmetric pleats as fish wings and microfibre. Piping and fluorescent accents. Printed neoprene and waterproof coatings

TREND 6: PORTO ALEGRE

Driftwood

Chambray

Madras Check

Fishing

Madras Check

Inspirations
Beachside sunset and unrefined ocean materials, weathered woods and sandblasted resins, worn straps and fraying cords, fishnet nylon and iridescent rubber, artificial flowers and Madras jersey invite us to share in the tropical nonchalance of a new Eden.
Trend Accents

Driftwood and washed-out floats
Cable cords and laminated voiles
Neon baits and lures
Fishing nets and technical nylons
Bleached jeans and tie-dye denim
Recycled rubber

Colours

Icy Melon
Pop Orange
Abyssal
Laundry Blue
Terracotta

Clothing Trim and Details
Fishing-net netting and industrial mesh. Chambray bias and faded denim piping. Digital Madras and Batik prints. Driftwood buttons and belts corroded by salt. Buttons, heels and buckles in aged cork. Woven braids and cords in ragged nylon. Souvenir jewels in bleached sea shells. Flowers in beach wear jersey or iridescent PVC. Rusty or uncoated metal detailing. Transfers on dyed denim and faded leather.

TREND 7: RECYCLEDESIGN

Moire


Honeycomb Pleating

Honeycomb Detailing

Melamine Yellow Honeycomb

Inspirations
Salvaged, compressed, agglomerated, woven, frayed, or the individual creations of a new recycled luxury that turns design on its head. The sensuality of the lines and the poetry of this new Arte Povera place the emphasis on materials before addressing shape and function.
Trend Accents

Green design materials
Eco-design
Fun chaos
Arts and crafts salvage
Artistic compression
Recycled vintage textures

Colours

Melamine yellow
Frosted Glass
Pink light
Rag Paper
Seaweeds

Clothing and Trim Details
Rag-weaving from salvaged textiles. Technical fasteners in compressed aluminium. Cords and ties like electric cables . Buttons in pellets of recycled glass. Buckles in sawdust chipboard. Jewels from electronic components. Patchwork tarpaulins in recycled PVC. Moiré rubber and rainbow straps. Web of recycled jeans and leather goods. Summer crochets in vintage wool and re-knits

TREND 8: RAG PAPER


Swarovski Crystal Fabric


Paper Lace

Laser Cut Buttons, Wood & Paper

Inspirations
Ammonia blue and tracing paper effect, watermarks and grid formations, waxed lacy paper and textured micro-structures take their inspiration from the new nobility of recycled and technical papers to create experimental and artistic designs.
Trend Accents

Art and craft paper
Body Art prints
The art of folding
Filigree designs
Honeycombed technical kraft paper
Pop-up laser cutouts

Colours
Terracotta
Newsprint Grey
Pink light
Cowrie
Rapidograph Blue

Clothing Trim and Details
Tracing paper transparencies, cellophane and crystal paper. Monetic filigree and millimetre squared paper. T-shirt transfers, asymptotes and charcoal sketches. Asymmetric pleats like fans. Flounces and braid in non-woven paper. Buckles and bits in vulcanised dyed kraft paper. Dry embossed motifs for labels. Buttons, beads, origami geometric shapes. Honeycombed structures and technical ruffles. Micro-waffling, cut-outs and crepe-paper lace

Courtesy ModaMont & Farouk Chekoufi

CHANEL RESORT COLLECTION 2011 - ST TROPEZ

2010-08-14T01:45:00.000-07:00

Opening the collection, models basked in the sun and arrived in mahogany boats to stroll long the port, looking for a table on the terrace. The show began unexpectedly with a quirky edge to it.
With micro-minis, high-waisted dresses and light blouses, Karl Lagerfeld brought the symbols of t CHANEL to meet his idea of Saint-Tropez today. While punctuated with black and white, color was thrown in for good measure - amber browns, absinthe and mint greens, sky and navy blues, and bright pinks appeared in block-colors as well as in the prints. Light little dresses were presented with many interesting proportions. Some showed knees and others flirted with ankles - a play on seduction appropriate for any time of day......... delicate sequinned ruffles, tweeded gossamer and fringed chiffon reigned supreme in the collection.

A pastel palette was mixed with brights in cotton silhouettes which featured lightly flared pants and pleated blouses worn with large belts. Jeans remained an essential piece this season for Chanel; whether colored or washed, crystal-studded or fringed, they were worn as a second skin.

Beachy dresses, frilled bikinis and little sweaters with short sleeves had touches of vichy prints. Tweed jackets and cardigans were worn with chiffon blouses, and the famous CHANEL suit saw yet again another reinterpretation. Embroidered tweed was worn with bare legs teamed with a low heels or gold leather grecian sandals. White or black broderie anglaise was teamed up with openwork leather, and the unsuspecting combination ended up being a perfect match!
Casual-chic looks in suede were decorated with embroideries with diamond-shaped stitching, while knitwear made a statement with black, white, pink and multicolored stripes decorated with trim or mixed with guipure lace. For the beach, cage dresses worn over swimsuits suggested a silhouette that was all about a reserved seduction and quiet sexiness.

Leather sandals in electric colors, bags and totes in patchwork or vichy tweed, and pearl belts brought a sparkling allure to the balmy nights resort nights of St Tropez!

THINGS I LOVE THIS SEASON!

2010-08-14T01:27:00.000-07:00

This season look out for these items which will add to your fashionista sensibility!

Ladies try out the season's scent - Lady Million by Paco Rabanne

Vibrant and sensual, Lady Million is fresh, floral and woody, like a nectar of voluptuous flowers, trailing delicately but still very present. Powerfully seductive, the sparkle of bitter orange with a touch of raspberry reveals the first breath. A burst of neroli follows, smooth and bright. But then the lethal weapon of heady orange blossom slips out of its sheath. Its narcotic sweetness bewitches and grabs all attention. Then, joining with Arabian jasmine underlined by gardenia, the blend soars into something more carnal, yet ever subtle. Now the obsessive pulsing of patchouli enters the fray, pacifying the honey with an addictive and terribly tempting sweetness. Amber spreads to become all enveloping, floating around the beauty, following each movement and offering its most beautiful facets, like a play of light on a diamond.

Get your hands on the De Grisogono INSTRUMENTO N°UNO

Ten years have passed since Instrumento N°Uno made its entrance onto the watchmaking stage. During this time we have seen many variations, from the most understated for him to the most dazzling for her, of a timepiece considered from its beginnings as a luxury watch. White diamonds, pink sapphires, paraiba tourmalines, tsavorites… to celebrate 10 years of the collection, Fawaz Gruosi, founder and chairman of de GRISOGONO, revisits this icon with a daring, resolutely Pop Art approach.

Look out for the new product from La Prairie THE CREAM CAVIAR ILLUMINATING SYSTÈME

This cream is meant to prevent future signs of aging with anti-oxidants, including White Truffles, White Wine Extract, and a White Flower Complex
Dark spots and uneven coloring can give your skin an aged look beyond its years. This potent anti-pigmentation serum interrupts the cycle that creates age spots, stopping discoloration before it begins.

Courtesy of Paris PlanetFashion

FASHION WEEK - TO DO OR NOT TO DO?

2010-08-13T08:21:00.000-07:00

We have had tons of requests for tickets to our show at Fashion Week............despite us not showing this season. Many of you have asked why and some avid fashionistas seem astounded to the point that they still gagging over their tepid Evian bottles of water. So to dispel any myths of us staging a coup and launching our own fashion week (the very thought of it sends a shiver down my spine amidst all the Circque du Mode theatrics going on at present) or the fact that I am completely immersed in our events business...........herewith the reason/s!

Firstly, we have just come out of a World Cup and whilst we all enjoyed the great spirit and sense of patriotism on show we all suffered that awful period of having soccer on our mind 24/7. Whilst I can't say that it applied to me personally, what I will venture to say is that it did bring many things to a stand still whether is was simple work productivity, supplier delays or simply the fact that it seemed like Christmas in July. Most of those badly dressed (and often tacky) WAGS hung on to their H&M dresses like a vuvuzela stuck to the lips of those demented South Africa fans who blew it at a drop of a makarapa! So many of us knew that accessing the so called onslaught of potential foreign clients would be akin to rediscovering the Cullinan diamond. So we decided to work on doing more international marketing and working on our online boutique which is taking far longer then we expected. Technology is frustrating and needs to be tweaked more then a toile for Oprah Winfrey I've learnt!

Be that as it may, being asked to fill in an absurd questionaire 2 months before a fashion week takes place and then still having to wait for a 'selection' committee to agree to you showing is a bit all too much. Why put established designers through all that? Is it necessary? Or is it just a smoke screen for organisers to be appear to be diligent? It's day 2 already of fashion week and the general word out there is that it has not gone as well as anticipated and the collections are looking a bit tired leave alone the ghastly trend interpretations that some designers have conjured up. So much for the selection committee then?

Are fashion weeks losing their appeal? I think they have and certainly they seem to have lost focus on the real reason that the industry hosts them. Where's all the business transactions or row of buyers that we should have? Enjoying the tail end of the European summer holidays I think.............

We need to seriously assess where and how we show as designers. Do we show to an audience that is there to socialise or think its hip to be seen at an event like fashion week or do we show to people who are our customers and to new audiences waiting to spend at our stores? The choice seems pretty obvious to those endowed with common sense alas not quite with the powers that be.

I am responsible for the livelihoods of my staff and the loyal people who work in every aspect of my business. Launching or showing a new collection is not a rash decision and not one that I take lightly. We plan extensively for these things and we plan exactly what we aim to sell to either existing clients or new clients that we aim to introduce to our product. Leave alone the PR and marketing activity that goes into making sure that one's work is given the right exposure. Nothing is done with our proper planning and the precise execution of a Samurai warrior!

In any event most people and certainly designers will tell you that collections have a longer life span. We are still delivering repeat orders on our Autumn/Winter 2009 Couture collection and the Spring/Summer 2011 collection we took a risk by launching in early July because we were not sure of when fashion week would be held and whether we would have received an invite to participate. It was the prelude to World Cup and strategically it was the right thing to do! So again its a reason for us not having shown a collection. Another reason is, and one we are brimming with pride over, is the launch of our men's bespoke range. This is about to launch but in doing so we have had to invest time, labour and capital into setting up a different infrastructure to manage the production of this which is separate to our womenswear studio.

Many things must change with our fashion weeks..........it needs strategic direction and a boost in creativity together with ironing out the major snags. We most definately will return to show but for now I am happy working on the growth of our business and preparing for what is still going to be a harder year of trade. A reserved and more cautious approach in the luxury goods industry is called for and the urge to explore new gaps in the market.

Moving forward the question on many people's lips are whether any of the fashion weeks are appropriate for them as platforms to show on? Perhaps working on one's own show yields greater results? We saw this last year by staging our own show off site and being able to invite people we wanted to and to execute our show the way envisaged. Maybe the catwalk is becoming obsolete? This has certainly held true for many designers abroad who have gone out to do exhibitions in different venues and without models? It's a changing world out there and one must have one's ear to the ground and be exceptionally realistic in making decisions around launching collections or showing at a fashion week for the sake of merely showing. I choose not to show this season at fashion week..........not until things change and it's worth my while and that of my business.

2010-08-13T01:00:00.000-07:00

VOTE FOR FASHION

SOME OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS......AT THE MOMENT

2010-04-28T05:25:00.000-07:00

SUNO

This NYC label for me represents a fashion forward use of textiles that originate from Africa. It serves as a great reference for those labels in South Africa stuck within the confines of using only traditional fabrics in the most trite way. The label integrates interesting embroideries and contemporary fabrication to create a truly modern and hip look. It does a huge amount I think in breaking down stereotypes of things which originate from the African continent..............

FEDERICO ASPESI

This season Federico Aspesi showed the most luxurious denim woven in silk and indigo dyed. It is light and has the most amazing handle. It premiered in Paris at Premiere Vision and is part of their Spring/Summer 2011 offering..............I have just received my sampling and I cannot wait to see what the final garment looks like. By the way it also has a version of it with Lycra added to it.

MIROGLIO (ITALY) & KBC (GERMANY)

Both Miroglio and KBC have tapped into James Cameron's movie 'Avatar'. The large format digital prints and intricate detail inspired by flora and magical plant life are rife in the new collection of prints for Spring/Summer 2011. Microscopic images of plant cell life and surreal 3D imaging play an important role this season. The 3D imaging is what I love the most on fabrics......it adds to creating an illusionary silhouette and often changes body shape.......tricky but amazing to work with.

FASHION HOWL

2010-04-26T12:30:00.000-07:00

John C Worsley

I am so bored looking at fashion which is uninspiring.........
I am so bored of the duplicitous standards of magazines who constantly and proudly tout product from every mass producing country.........yet scream patriotism and vow to the new South Africa their fashion allegiance
I am so bored of mediocre reportage on fashion
I am so bored of fashion weeks and their boring offering................leave alone agendas more hidden then a nun's slip
I am so bored of fashion councils and dull dreary disconnected council members.........who would do better as hair splitters and who writhe in ecstasy in seeing their titles printed on paper..........
I am so bored of the government officials who think by adding their meaningless two cents it will some how entitle them to a few seconds of feeling fabulously fashionable.......Lord save us all from their twisted machinations and visions of being Messiahs to the industry........go learn to sew a button on first!
I am so bored of designers who design badly and who believe their own hype............and fondly proclaim the name of Jesus, Swarovski and cheap satin as their saviours.....
I am so bored of editors talking about the shows in Paris or Milan when they stood outside or sat in the rafters to watch a show that they did not even have backstage access to........nor understand the collection or the art of making it..........
I am so bored of watching young minds being taught by frustrated designers........who think its better to sell hope to these souls instead of being honest or at the very least have the decency to show them the way...........
I am bored of fragile egos...........insecure twats and petty gossip mongers..........
I am bored of 'celebs' trying to score dresses yet proclaim to the unsuspecting their great fashion sense..........
Oh and I am bored of fake bags, fake jewels and fake labels...........

Do I simply brush it away and pretend it does not exist...........or do I become a goldfish with memories that last a nanosecond.........

Hell no I think I will write about it or start a riot.....................

PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL 2010 - BACK STAGE

2010-03-07T06:21:00.000-08:00

CHRISTIAN DIOR FALL 2010 - BACKSTAGE

Loved the plait and the controlled messiness.........

LANVIN FALL 2010 BACK STAGE

Very Pulp Fiction...........................

GAVIN RAJAH COLLECTION 2009/10 - FINDING BEAUTY IN NEGATIVE SPACES

2009-08-28T07:53:00.000-07:00

Photographs: Simon Deiner

COLLECTION COUTURE
‘FINDING BEAUTY IN NEGATIVE SPACES’
INSPIRATION

Strange it would seem that in the 1980’s developing countries across the world faced economic and social difficulties as they suffered from multiple debt crises, requiring many of these countries to apply for financial assistance from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and the World Bank. Ethiopia witnessed widespread famine in the mid-1980s, resulting in the country having to depend on foreign aid to provide food to its population with the worldwide efforts of the famous Live Aid concert in 1985 to address and raise money to help Ethiopians, …………Rock Hudson died of AIDS and thus started an epidemic the world cowers in fear of even till today…………Madonna rocked the underground clubs and gave a new expression to the social scene ………South Africa was fighting human rights abuses……..……history is repeating itself in similar ways in many parts of the world in 2009. This season my inspiration is taken from the 80’s. Think underground sub-cultures, fetishes, synthpop, bold graphics, music videos the birth of ‘straight edge’, arcade games, MTV, new romanticism and nights in clubs………..the quest to find beauty in places often filled with darkness and negativity. The collection is an interesting mix of new takes on references to this era. “The good thing about fashion repeating itself is that you can simply leave out the naff stuff and focus on breathing a fresh life into the cool stuff!”

This season we have custom designed prints, embroideries and even some textiles for the collection – all of which will soon be able to be purchased by consumers to create their own garments! This season also sees a collaboration with uber cool denim brand Levi's®.

Silk taffeta, cotton tulle, wool and cashmere tweeds, denim, silk duchesse, silk stretch twills, satin finished wools and wool blend knits are integral to this collection. Gilded corded laces, Spanish cotton lace, hand fringed textiles and delicate paillette embroideries make this collection one which is labour intensive and focused on surface details.

This season also heralds a collaboration with the Levi's® brand and one of which we are exceptionally proud of. The collection will feature our take on a Levi's® inspired denim collection for men and women together with their signature silhouettes.

I am thankful to my dear friend Bastien Gonzalez, a more kind and talented soul the world is yet to discover. His creative genius and inspiration has made it possible to collaborate across continents. Finally Reverence de Bastien has arrived on South African shores and I am proud to be previewing his new product range on the models for this collection.

DEDICATION
The 80’s was a period I grew up as a kid and looking back now, it was a time that I was exposed to many places, books, ideas, forms of music, art and theatre. All of this I have my parents to thank for. This year also marks a loss for me which will never be replaced….the death of my Dad to whom I am eternally grateful to for exposing me to the fashion industry and supporting my quest to be part of it. This collection is dedicated in memory of him and his influence on my life and work…………..and to my mum who has taught me to endure adversity with courage and strength………..

INSPIRING ME THIS SEASON

2009-06-21T11:24:00.000-07:00

I am currently working on a new collection and I thought I would share some interesting things that I have come across and that have been inspiring to me:

Austrian born violinist and composer Fritz Kreisler - sketching is a quiet activity and illustration of collections needs very little distraction other then that on which you are focusing on. His music has been very soothing and done this so effectively that I often find myself in the 'zone'. I found that Rachmaninov interpreted the 'Liebeslied' for piano.........full of complex nuances. It has kept me company through many a long hour of sketching and on my travels to Europe this month. You should try listening to it. Whilst you at it listen to Shostakovitch's interpretation of 'Tea for Two' also known as the Tahitian Trot. Music has always been integral to my creative process and somehow neo-romantic composers have brought out that sense of dark, melancholic, lonely clouds looming over the horizon of unrequited love type stories.
Far from being a depressing collection though I think that it has evoked some kind of deep need to interpret the music in a more happier and less sombre tone.

Working with students
I have been working with a group of young students and even though at times I come short of committing some unforgivable sin I have to say on the whole it has been inspiring and at the same time disappointing. I think inspiring because its great to see young minds who have no constraints in the way they design and don't really have to worry about commercial success of the garments that they design.
On the other hand I am in shock at just how little they know and how little effort they seem to put into their work. I often think that the reason we have young designers who don't go further then a few half arsed attempts at showing a fashion weeks is because I think that they are plain lazy. So I think they all think that fashion is easy and impervious to the requisite hard work that goes with many other professions! On the whole though they are challenging but I do find their inquiring minds inspiring......

LIST OF OTHER INSPIRING THINGS:
FABRICS:
Silk Gaberdine - I love the weight of this fabric in constructing fluid jackets
Tulle, tulle and more tulle especially cotton and silk ones.....
Double faced tweeds in cashmere
Heavy weight silk/wool blend jersey

BOOKS
'The Hour I First Believed' by Wally Lamb
'La Fleur du Mal' - Baudelaire
'Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion' by Nancy J Troy

MUSIC
The Three Penny Opera - Kurt Weill
'Tonight I Burn Brightly' - Bill Ricchini
'El Hotel 2 - Segmento' - Various

WATCHING
Chanel Signe
Shameless Season 5

GAVIN RAJAH EVENTS

2009-02-02T08:05:00.000-08:00

We are back in the swing of things with events.........Here's some of our latest work done for the J&B Met - Client Jaguar

COPING WITH DOOM & GLOOM - PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS IN FASHION BUSINESSES

2009-01-26T12:27:00.000-08:00

Last year saw the first panel discussion hosted by African Fashion International on the global recession and it's impact on the fashion industry.......
I thought it was a brilliant start to the fashion week and a great initiative given the economic climate and that everyone is scaring each other with impending doom and gloom scenarios.........right down to the cash bar in the VIP lounge and soggy Nik Naks on offer.....;-)
Anyway be that it as it may it was a great start to something which could turn out to be something finally worth anything to designers. Off course I really think that many of the panelists had some great takes on the current situation and offered great perspectives on the global impact of the economy.......included in this was the usual brain flexing dull as bricks factual blah blah which clearly had gave some the fashionistas in attendance a half glazed, deer with headlights type of expression.....it simply flew over their heads and kicked the living daylights of the person behind them.
For me it was really interesting but I sat there wondering whether any of these people were offering any practical solutions to the fashionistas who awaiting with bated breath for the panacea.........the promise of a future lined in silk and edged in mink. Again I found it interesting bar the regurgitation of some boring rant on the quotas etc etc and some trend person who spoke about the shoulder of the Balmain jacket (see my blog on Paris Fashion Week) - the good Lord only knows how a trendforecaster could look at the last Spring/Summer (ready to wear) collections and base predictions moving forward..........should we not be looking at Spring/Summer 2010 already and be assessing how they would impact on us commercially - her observation was as about relevant to the discussion as an ostrich would be to a Japanese tea drinking ceremony! One thing I would have agreed on was her constant mention of the word 'relevance' (see below for explanation)!
What I found interesting was that most people were predicting the end of luxury brands......yeah right.......and were implying that Chanel should go Walmart! Luxury brands stand the test of time.....its their thing and most of them whilst cutting back on retail expansion, jobs or their ad spend......don't really cut their price. Consistency even through adversity is what makes them brands that withstand the test of time, Madoff scandals and recessions.

Moving on though I did find some of the points that were made exceptionally relevant to our current situation. What we did forget is that to a large extent many of the fashion businesses in SA are SME's and have the ability to adapt to market conditions and demands far more easily so there are ways to try and combat the effects of a recession. Most of these businesses are not in such great shape to begin with so this compounds problems.......
What would have been nice is if people had practical suggestions/ideas that fashionistas could use in the daily operation of their businesses.

For me I had a few things but since we gave air time to more statistical jargon I never got to say what I wanted to say so here goes:

1. Spend on your brand

During a vibrant and growing economy consumers spend without question. Having an unclear brand position, while not the most ideal situation, therefore is not as risky as during a recessionary period such as the one we are encountering. In times of growth and expansion, the brand’s weakness in the marketplace is less obvious, as consumers tend to be more forgiving and are not so price-conscious. When times get tough however, consumer spending habits change dramatically. With negative news percolating from all media avenues the consumption fear sets in and they require much further motivation for spending. In recessionary times, consumers, not only spend less overall, but they become far more selective in how they spend. They gravitate away from brands that fail to provide a clear, meaningful, relevant and emotional engagement.

Conventional wisdom suggests that in times of recession it is better to tighten the belt and cut costs and most companies immediately cut their marketing and branding efforts. For me this is when opportunity presents itself. When others are cutting their spending and loosing the emotional engagement with customers, it will pay in the longer term to spend on the brand.

2. Spend on brand relevancy

The brand spend doesn't always mean monetary spend in every case. It is about generating a buzz around the brand and with the present day technology such efforts can be choreographed much easily than one can think. Think of online marketing for instance......the internet! A word-of-caution however for those over eager brand managers. When you create and open these new avenues of communication understand the limitations of it and the manner in which customers will engage in it. History of such communications is littered with companies overdoing it and in turn failing to become relevant. Relevance is extremely important to luxury brands and therefore you should tread carefully. During economic slumps it is the best time to build this brand relevance as it will entrench these brands long term. So ask yourself a simple question is whatever it is that you intend doing relevant to your brand.......does imbue the core values upon which your label is built on? Does it differentiate you in the marketplace and emphasise your unique selling point.....is it RELEVANT to your business? If yes then proceed.......

3. Avoid the SALE mentality

The increasing 'Wall-Street' driven short-term mentality to outperform competitors everyday is another pitfall associated with most marketers. I do not believe that there is a single business out there that can do this. Remember that proverb 'every dog has its day'. This is how simple it is. You cannot outperform the market everyday and every time. It catches up on you. In recession times short-term focused marketer go on sales promotion overdrive. This has a direct impact on the brand erosion and consumers get confused as to what the brand stands for.

Instead of sales promotion spend on engagement. Make your brand relevant. Cement the position of your brand in the customers' minds. Stop the sale mentality. However, simple and logical this may sound, most marketers who are continuously involved in operational thinking miss this and kill their beloved (mostly by the consumers) luxury brands.

GAVIN RAJAH SPRING|SUMMER 09 COUTURE

2009-01-26T11:54:00.000-08:00

This season is inspired by Victorian novelist Sir H Rider Haggard, with particular reference to his ‘lost world’ novel “King Solomon’s Mines”. With origins in Durban, moving inland and then to a ‘lost world’ type civilization loosely based on the Zulu Kingdom. Whilst the collection is not solely based on the novel, the descriptions and impressions of the book by Victorian society in 1885 is what captured my attention. The impressions of African cultures and the perceptions of London society at that time were triggers for this collection. Whilst not devoid of racism in anyway the book was seemingly less racist then many books of this genre to follow it. One thing that was evident is that he portrayed the African characters as having pride in their culture and even went as far as elaborating on the beauty and allure of the African female characters in the novel.

So with this in mind my collection is inspired by a singular theme ‘African pride’. I wanted to design a collection that showed various elements used in traditional cultural dress but with a new take to it. The collection is based on fluid fabrics which really are an antithesis to the often rigid fabrics used in traditional dress or the animal hides that form part of it. Soft silks with hand painted detail done in freehand and animal prints lend a strong African/Tribal element but hopefully not in a trite way. Mother of pearl buttons, cowrie shells and other elements are used as embellishment but in combination with modern Swarovski components. Bronze finished chain mail, Chantilly lace, silk chiffon and
This season the focus on the collection is evening dresses that are simplistic in silhouette but are embellished richly. I wanted the collection to not look like traditional garments but more couture and delicate. I wanted this to be a wearable collection which had great aspects of craftsmanship to it and artistic merit. The end result was collaboration with a great African accessory designer based in Paris, Mikael Kra. Mikael listened to what I wanted and interpreted some of my crazy sketches into beautiful pieces together with designing some special pieces for the collection. Mikael has designed collections for luminaries such as Azzedina Alaia in Paris and I have for the last ten years waited for an opportunity to work together. I am thankful for his time and the effort he took to get inside my head to understand what I wanted!

I would be amiss in not mentioning a South African fashion luminary, Dicky Longhurst (one of the reasons I am a designer today) who painstakingly hand painted silk taffeta inspired by the rich cultural mix of Durban.
This season is about colour for me. Africa is not always about disease, poverty, dictatorships or crime……….its about celebrating the cultural diversity and the pride we share despite whatever adversity we have. This is what I wanted to show in Paris this season……….we are capable of so much more. ‘Eau Sauvage’ was perhaps a cheeky title for the collection but it was a really jab back at those who often think so little of what comes out of our continent and those on it who think that anything not out of Africa has to be better!

Special thanks go to Catherine Le Sueur of the Bead Merchants for her assistance and unconditional support in contributing to this collection with her wealth of expertise and amazing selection of beads from all over Africa. I look forward to great collaborations with you!

Photographer: Simon Deiner

TOP 25 FASHION CITIES IN THE WORLD

2008-11-23T01:52:00.000-08:00

Atlantis Hotel Launch in Dubai

Plaza Leading to Red Square in Moscow

Faena Hotel and Universe in Buenos Aires

The Global Language Monitor has brought out its list of the world's top 25 fashion cities:

New York (1) - 5th year in a row and probably supported by the ease of internet access!
Rome (2) - Expected but thought that Milan would take this spot!
Paris (3) - In terms of our fashionistas probably is NO. 1 but not in the survey!
Milan (5) - Hmmm it reigns over London....
London (4) - Still within the Big 5 but slowly dropping.....not surprisingly if you saw the last collections at fashion week.......
Los Angeles (6) - Not suprising considering it hosts Chanel's Cruise collection launches...
Sydney (12) - Fashionable??????? Not convinced. Fab location and social life but fashion?
Las Vegas (9) - Elvis regalia reigns supreme and 60 sec marriages.......go figure....
Berlin (11) -This should have been higher up........such a cool city!
Tokyo (6) - Capital of Asian luxury brands.......
Hong Kong (8) - Poor step cousin to Tokyo!
Dubai (24) - Hype, more hype and even more hype.......advertising pays!
Shanghai (14) - This should be higher up........although the polluted air could be keeping fashionstas at bay........
Singapore (10) - Hmmmm again I think its about the advertising and hype....
Madrid (New) - Hmmmm not convinced of this at all thought that Rio would hit it here
Moscow (16) - New luxury market capital.........would have thought that it would have gone higher?
Santiago (19) - Is this for real? Although with the amount of investment in this part of the world it does make for a serious contender....
Melbourne (15) - Geez another Australian city........
Stockholm (New) - In fashion? Most boring fashion ever........fashionable furniture and clever interior concepts yes but fashion?
Buenos Aires (22) - Hmmm not convinced that it has such a strong fashion presence however with new design hotels like the Faena Hotel and Universe it just might be deserving of this position.....(its awesome hotel by the way and I highly recommend it!)
Johannesburg (23) - Joburg improves two spots......a climber which bodes well for SA!!!
Mumbai (18) - Great entry and with the introduction of more luxury brands into the Indian market this should head up on the the list in the future....
Cape Town (New) -Hot new entry! Love this and its a firm prediction that this will push out JHB in the future....
New Delhi (New) - The Indian capital makes a fashionable entrance and trust me will be moving on up in this list in years to come
Barcelona (18) - huge drop for this city that will surely be taken over by Rio and Sao Paolo in years to come........

Having 2 cities from South Africa is certainly a great endorsement!

'The Times They Are A-Changing...'

2008-10-19T09:32:00.000-07:00

Photographer: Annie Leibovitz - Vanity Fair "Killers Kill, Dead Men Die"

I have had a few emails about fashion week dates (the ones held by AFI) and the move to bring them forward. In fact I read it on a blog by fellow designer Abigail Keats. Keats seems to think its a great idea and quite frankly I must agree except cannot agree to the dates that are now being proposed. Whilst my colleague is under the impression that these change of dates will lure buyers out from other parts of the world I am not quite convinced, in fact I am pretty willing to risk my Balenciaga gladiator sandals over it!
Rather then go on with a rather elaborate explanation of why these dates are simply laughable all I would like to say on this matter is pick up the phone and call any buyer worth their salt and see if they will be prepared to travel all this way at that time.......leave alone whether we are able to all change our closing schedules for business. Just an additional word on this........I have had the experience of working through the festive holidays prepping a collection for international fashion weeks........its not that easy and requires more then just simple forward planning etc........it requires a mammoth task of motivating staff and forget about the simple fact that most suppliers in SA at that time are propped on beach chairs looking like broiled lobsters far removed from the productive environments of our studios.

I do think that there is a need to move the dates however come on who dreamt this up? Apparently 'industry research' was conducted. What? Who? How? Come on share this watershed piece of research with all in the industry - we are all desperate to know? Please for the good Lord's sake don't use lead times in magazines as a material reason.........if this would be the case then one wonders how international magazines have coped all these years?

Oh well it seems that again the industry that warrants these events are being dictated to. Will be interesting to see the line up this January........the quality, the standard and number of designers that are truly ready to show Winter 2009! And I meant 2009 and not winter 2008 thats past!
Whilst there are some of us that are ready - as our ready to wear 2009 collections are done and dusted I am not sure how many SA designers are really ready. I cannot think of this change even if it were reasonable being introduced without a minimum of 6 months notice to all - hell I forgot we were apparently all consulted in terms of the 'research' that was done.......

My invitation arrived for JHB fashion week......Winter...
For me not being able to committing to participate is two fold:
1. Our collection is ready however putting a show together requires at least a month's prep......with my staff already on leave at that time the simple issue of manpower becomes an issue. I will be left with a few days to get it together........we could possibly do this however what about other designers who may not have comprehensive infrastructure or did not factor this into their planning? Real businesses in fashion plan - in fact it is crucial to everything we do.......
2. If the reason is to have buyers attend then who are they and where do they come from and who do they represent? Who am I showing to? More sponsors? Do I get 200-300 tickets in a venue filled with people who are trying to look vaguely fashionable? Do I have to pander to event creative direction as creative as Milli Vanili?

Leave alone that we are wanting to entertain international buyers when we allow collections on ramp that have as much romantic appeal as unrequited love..........

It costs designers money to do shows......as much as people can labour on about how much it costs to stage fashion weeks it does not take away from the fact that without collections to show there are no fashion weeks! We define the strength of a fashion week - the line up supports the event.......doesn't anyone get it? Without consulting the designers that they want to have on their fashion weeks about the change of dates is not a clever move either.
Anyway enough said I am looking forward to see what January has in store for us all! With the rand plummeting with the way it is and the way fashion is trading its an expense that most designers out there cannot afford. This was evident in the international fashion weeks that past.
Interesting to note that the covering email to this year's invitation stated that there has been an 'unprecedented interest'............hmmmm.

In terms of my brand I am not committing to expending time, energy and effort unless there are some changes and there is a benefit to our business. Keep the carrot dangling for rabbits and desperados!

'Come gather 'round people
Wherever you roam
And admit that the waters
Around you have grown
And accept it that soon
You'll be drenched to the bone.
If your time to you
Is worth savin'
Then you better start swimmin'
Or you'll sink like a stone
For the times they are a-changin'
Bob Dylan 1963

LACE........MOVING INTO 09 & BEYOND.....

2008-10-08T02:00:00.000-07:00

Sonata Lace Bodysuit & Gavin Rajah Couture

Manolo Blahnik Lace Mule

Tord Boontje Floral Chandelier

Louise Campbell 'Bless You' Chair

Gam Plus Fratesi Lace Chair

Decarabia Bracelet

I am currently looking at new collections in fabrics to place orders on and I am bowled over by how many laces are in each of the fabric collections and just how many new designs are available at the moment from the lace houses. I love the lightness and the feminine edge lace brings to a garment and must say that this season I have used a bit........not sure I can hold back for the next season either! Even the last cruise collection managed to not go unscathed without a dose of lace....... Forget the naff oversized patterns that were once de rigeur in collections.....lace is taking on a new look.

Old wiry grannies making beautiful hankerchiefs in Venice? Sexy frilly bits to cover fleshy parts.......lace is taking on a new direction this season and impacting on many areas of design.

Taking on fresh interpretations from old patterns and details reminiscent of what your grand mum would have worn; this season it returns in forms and patterns that are reflective of the technological age we live in. Abstract gossamer cobwebs, alphabets through to landscapes have been woven into lace for collections moving away from the delicacy and preciousness often associated with it. Muiccia Prada last season described it as the most significant fabric in a women's life associating it with birth, marriage and death; and possible many other important occasions in between. Forthcoming seasons will see lace featuring hugely in all the collections.........woven, laser cut, printed, crocheted and embellished..........

Solstiss Lace

For an amazing selection of lace try Solstiss out.......I tend to buy alot from this French house. Only word of caution is that you order in advance and pray that the rand does not do major dives.....oh and check the duty and courier costs payable!

Check out Sophie Halette or Strella who also produce some amazing laces.......

SPRING|SUMMER 2009......HOT OR NOT?

2008-09-30T09:07:00.001-07:00

D Squared S|S 2009 'Charlie's Angels' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Interesting take on the 70's with some snazzy tailoring and the best quality from Dean and Dan Caten so far. The over top twins were inspired by 'Charlie's Angels' and in particular Farah Fawcett. Oversized jewelled neck pieces, belts and harnesses on fluid jersey dresses through you back to the days of Halston and Studio 54. Sharp wide leg denim pants and fitted jackets teamed with American plaid shirts were strong looks. The in your face spaced out 90's rock star glam was replaced by a quieter (still sultry) contemporary sexiness.

Christian Dior S|S 2009 'Tribal' Photographer: Alessandro Lucioni

A dilution of the last couture collection John Galliano was just not in the same form as is his previous collections. If you think he went quieter then maybe creative silence would best describe the collection. The signature porn star shoes remained but had African fertility dolls as heels.......same for the neckpieces. Bodices on dresses were beaded with cowrie shells and a distorted polka dot print almost took on a leopard print. If this was Dior's way of trying to reign the designer in and make for a more commercial collection then to an extent the silhoeuttes were wearable however not sure if the transparency will cut it? Maybe Carla Bruni for her next state visit will need to ask for linings to be added to some of the gossamer light gowns that were presented which all had the 20's type bathing suit bottoms underneath it all...........Python skin was huge in this collection...and in Prada. Overall not quite the collection one would expect but then again maybe Dior is heading for change..........

Versace S|S 2009 'Tough Love' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Donatella has cleaned up Versace or so the buzz was in Milan. The collection was pared down and this season she used hearts as a motif for her collection. She cleverly used zip detail and zipper teeth to form heart shapes on garments. Whilst the collection was ready to wear it had many couture type details and she correctly added that people who were buying pret a porter want to see details and workmanship. A neat collection which still had the Versace edge to it but far more sophisticated. This was a great follow on from her resort collection which had already premiered many of the season's popular looks. Versace it seems is heading in a new direction and most buyers seemed impressed and ready to spend again on this collection.

Maison Martin Margiela S|S 2009 'Bon Anniversaire' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Martin Margiela celebrated 20 years on the scene and sent down a collection to rapturous applause. Whilst many were at the show in Paris to celebrate the success and the zany if not completely OTT signature style of the house........many were there to see whether the enigmatic Martin could still serve up a dose of madness. True to his reputation he did not fail........this included sending down a birthday cake of gargantuan proportions down the runway. Wigs, wigs and more wigs covered models faces and created a an eery if not surreal collection. Conceptual in the extreme but with all the technical competence and mastery of a house and designer worthy of celebrating 20 years in fashion.

Gianfranco Ferre S|S 2009 'Geometry' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are the duo from 6267 that have taken over at Ferre. This collection was architectural (not surprising since Mon Ferre did train as an architect) but more then anything it was modern and wearable with the perfect balance of 'show only' pieces and enough separates and suits to be a commercial success. Amazing construction and much better then the job being done at Valentino by Fachinetti...........

D&G S|S 2009 'Cote Azure' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The second line at Dolce & Gabbana, D&G was nautical. Stripes, stars, gold emblems, sailors knots and nautical flags were abound in all the collection. The duo borrowed their inspiration from Coco Chanel........the tweed, stripes and drop waisted dresses were all there. An interesting collection but not sure the 50's maillots are going to be such a hit for the D&G clientele who tend to be young and far more 'out there'.

Balmain S|S 2009 'Bling Rock' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Christophe Decarnin sent a collection out to the pounding sounds of Madonna. Whilst this opening show to Paris Fashion Week set the tone and energy it was also a flash back to the 80's. The brash and loud designs of Gianni Versace came screaming back at your memory but this collection was anything but a re-hash. It was a clever interpretation with clever and unique details. Two most interesting details stand out and mark my words they are about to be copied pretty soon by many others out there. Firstly the sleeve with the peaked crown was an interesting addition to jackets. The second thing which was an interesting detail was the suede dresses which were left raw and unfinished.......

Dolce & Gabbana S|S 2009 'Pigiama Baroque' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The actual theme behind the collection were pyjamas! The duo cleverly used traditional masculine shapes and subverted them in the cut and details to create a sexy and sleek collection. There was an interesting mix of fabrics with some garments having up to 5 different types of brocades in the construction. Fluid pyjama weight failles, satins and crepes were combined to create a relaxed feel. Even though some of the garments looked overtly constructed the feel was soft to the touch. Unlike many designers this season the duo wanted to create garments that loooked structured but were still comfortable to wear. Heavily jewelled belts accessorised garments to create cinched waists and the clutch bags became the new jewellery this season for Dolce & Gabbana. Heavily beaded and embellished bags, including ones made from porcupine quills added to the luxe value of the collection........

Bottega Veneta S|S 2009 'Modern American Prairie' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

I love this brand but not the clothes....give me the bags and accessories any day. Maier, the designer said that this season the clothes were not about being ostentatious......I agree Bottega Veneta is not about screaming logos or for the nouveau riche.......its for the discerning......Whilst the leather is the best available in the world and this season the butter soft leather dresses were amazing..the rest could have been a contemporary wardrobe for 'Little House on the Prairie'..........rich women playing poor....................

LUXURY IN A COLD CLIMATE

2008-09-30T00:55:00.001-07:00

Azzedine Alaia - Arts of Fashion Foundation Hyeres

Yes yes yes I know I have been way to occupied on other things to write up more but hopefully this week provides some relief in being able to pay attention to my blog.
Been an interesting week all round betwixt catching up with much needed sleep and the latest SS 2009 collections it has been interesting looking at the way we trade in a recession (oops I said that darn word) and the way we adapt (or die) in this exceptionally cold retail climate.

Anyone who tells me that fashion retail is doing exceptionally well is either under the influence of some cheap intoxicant or firmly messed up by their own sense of distorted reality. For those of us that have retail outlets I think we are all finding it hard to sell to clients who are tightening up their budgets akin to Alaia dresses.The only people that seem to find our prices acceptable and reasonable seem to be the foreign guests in our city. Even some of these foreigners seem to think shopping in Cape Town is similar to the haggling that goes on in Bangkok or Hong Kong.......whilst some of us may have to resought to this I find it condescending in the extreme and choose not to be a participant of this type of transaction..........

There are great things that I find have come out of this slump........I think that the average consumer is being far more discerning and that they are shopping around for value for money. I find more consumers are becoming hooked on quality as opposed to buying something which is not manufactured well or priced reasonably. Trust me even my local gals are impressing me by knowing the difference of silk based fabrics and bias cut dresses so that's a great start. Those who peddle polyester dresses under the guise of being 100% silk beware! Having a label in one's garment is not good enough.....it must stand the test of time by living up to the values and qualities it espouses. This is the time for differentiation and taking the time to improve one's marketing and retail skills. Whilst the rest complain and drink endless coffees lamenting the current state of affairs I think it is better spent on finding suitable avenues of revenue which complement one's existing business. This might also mean that this is a good time to explore international distribution as long as you can deliver a product which is unique, well made and well priced. More importantly I think this is the time that one should get out of the office and hit the streets to find out what's really happening out there.

Often as designers we sit back and work in the safe confines of our studios without an understanding of the reality out 'there'. I am not sure we are able to identify our potential market or the future customers if we don't get to know their needs. Getting to grips with the current market slump is important as it equips us with dealing with situations like this in the future and will possibly assist in adapting to market needs in the prevailing conditions. Maybe too many silk chiffon dresses are not what people are looking for out there? Maybe the gingham shirt shirt will not be the most wanted item in this season's wardrobe.........maybe those origami detailed dresses are going to end up in smoke......? Consumer feedback is important and more then that will assist in building your customer profile which enables you to design product that caters for them rather then alienate them.
This is the time to balance creativity with astute commercial sense......its necessary and a must to survive the months ahead.............there is no shame in cutting back or trying to prevent loss of income - rather that then complete ruin.
I find myself consulting to many brands who overlook minor elements of their business that can assist in generating revenue.........my advice to all those writing to me is think laterally and think smart.......sometimes its not the big changes but the minor one's that have the biggest impact in your business...................hang in there we all in it together!

'ALEA IACTA EST........GRADUATE FASHION WEEK'

2008-09-18T19:04:00.000-07:00

The die has been cast as Julius Caesar once said......there is no turning back after crossing the Rubicon it would seem.

There have been many emails and telephone calls around the impending launch of a Graduate Fashion Week. A good idea given the fact that there is no platform that graduates can showcase their final year collections to a captive and discerning industry audience. An awesome opportunity to discover new talent, enable potential employers to snap up young creatives and to develop these fledgling designers. I proposed this idea last year to Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe (AFI Chairperson) and at that stage there somehow seemed to be no need for it. Be that as it may this is not an idea which was I claimed to be original (there are many similar type fashion weeks around the world) and as I predicted someone (largely driven this time by Elizabeth Galloway Academy) would come along and pursue it. Anyway given the fact that it was announced that Durban Fashion Week was going to be the seminal platform for young talent in the country there seemed to be no need to further pursue this as an option. Well it now seems that we will have a Graduate Fashion Week spearheaded by tertiary fashion institutions which I think is absolutely brilliant and who better to formulate this event then the people teaching these young minds. This off course has all been facilitated under the Cape Town Fashion Council in Cape Town........well how could they not?

So the interesting news behind it all is that this fashion week is out for pitch as clearly all the institutions are not in the business of running shows or managing the infrastructure required, or they (The Graduate Fashion Week committee/alliance/co-operative) couldn't decide who's brother/sister/hairdresser/boyfriend could produce this event. So it turns out 3 companies pitch, one a shopping mall show producer (cheap) , another a respected producer in the country and wait for it drum roll..................AFI! The latter apparently bringing in all the bells and whistles of management, sponsorship procurement and nationwide television coverage. I managed to check this and all three entities pitching have the same dates on hold at the V&A Waterfront (Marquee venue on Breakwater Boulevard although the venue seems to vacillate between this and The Runway). Forget the lack of ethics that suppliers seem to be bickering over........who found the venue first............who's quote has been distributed to all and sundry etc etc etc etc

This does seem to have caused a few fashionable ears to prick up....... I do think on the surface that they (AFI) are more then entitled to do so as it is an openly capitalist economy that we find ourselves in and quite clearly it fits in with their strategy of 'owning fashion' in the country.

The emails (including to my surprise some correspondence from the players involved!) I am receiving are asking other questions around this though............

AFI have an existing event which is driven around young designers/graduates in the form of MTN Durban Fashion Week. Is this not a conflict of interest? The intention of establishing this Graduate Fashion Week is to do so on a national basis so is this not about to sidestep MTNDFW? Wonder what the legal opinion on this would be..... as they do have another partner in Vanashree Singh to consider with MTNDFW. Does the CTFC or the tertiary institutions not see this as a conflict of interest or is it acceptable under the banner of being 'synergistic'?
Why would it seem that the concept of a Graduate Fashion Week was so far fetched last year and this year seemed so attractive. Is this providing AFI with the much needed support for their developmental programme in fashion or an opportunity to harvest young designers for the other fashion weeks they host............or acquiring equity in another event?
Using the television programme 'African Couture' as leverage is not quite right is it? After all this is not meant to be a programme that specifically covers AFI's events and sponsors solely?
A Graduate Fashion Week is meant to be representative of the country and inclusive? So anyone spoken to Lucilla Booyzen at SAFW or Sonwabile Ndamase at Vukani Awards?

In pondering all these questions posed I hope that this event goes on to be staged to empower the young designers without there being the type of infighting, bullying and backstabbing reminiscent of the Roman Senate. Whoever is about to be tasked with taking this event forward should do so with the interests of the designers being foremost and not as event organisers or fashion week producers. Furthermore this event has to have a separate identity which embraces and fosters the spirit of young creative talent. The CTFC whilst sitting impervious to the actual needs of these designers needs to act in their best interests with the objectivity of an autonomous body. Whatever happens there is no turning back and we will soon see the labours of those trying to establish this fashion week brought to fruition. Those who scream integrity, honesty and true professionalism should go forth enshrouded with the sound they make and for once think of not their interests but those of the industry that sustains their daily livelihoods.....and positions they hold.

'The world holds enough to satisfy everyone's need, but not everyone's greed' Gandhi

PS - Please do not send me anymore correspondence on this as I have had my say on this and its time to move on............

LONDON FASHION WEEK ......HITTING FASHION SIDEWAYS?

2008-09-17T12:46:00.000-07:00

Pet Shop Boys, 'Planet of the Apes' & Pac-Man

London Fashion Week is well on its way.......and either I am not getting it or fashion is being pushed sideways for collections that are created to look at rather then to be worn. I do love a bit of conceptual fashion (well thought out and executed and conceptual collections can literally leave you winded sometimes) but when it does in the hope that one can make front pages or get noticed then it all looks too contrived. The younger designers (and not so young) have started showing collections that would send any harajuku to wardrobe heaven. As opposed to any other fashion week in the world....London has always been seen to be cutting edge and more street. Now whilst I must agree with this and say that it has bred some of the finest designers most of them choose not to show there anymore and each year the contingent of press heavyweights tend to dwindle. This season the inspirations ranged from 'Planet of the Apes', Pac-Man, Pet Shop Boys to 'Blade Runner' (including a host of artists that even Google would have a problem finding!) . There is an extreme obsession with the 80's going on this week and whilst I find history repeating itself I cannot help think of my grand dame mentor , Jenny Le Roux, who has often said that the great thing about fashion repeating itself is that you can leave out the naff stuff. Well trust me the naff was there in all its finest glory......... Are they falling into the trap of trying to be so different that it ends up being just overhashed arbitrary inspirations that are so far removed from the clothing? Do I sense a bit of what is going on in SA................designers showing collections and justifying the ends without any explanation (logical or coherent). If one is aiming at designing purely conceptual fashion then where does the twain meet when it comes to making your collection commercially viable? I love Hussein Chalayan but where is he now? The same people that lauded his collections/installations are the same ones that begged at the end of the day to be able to wear them.......clearly wearing a dress as a table did not cut it (it appears that sitting in it posed a few problems...). The respect and praise that was heaped on him is now at an all time low......why? Simple being a great designer means being commercially successful in the real world...........being a pure artist is another thing altogether. I do hope that we are able to see him show again just for the mere fact that Hussein does conceptual like no one can at the moment.........it was always well thought out and the presentation was pure genius.........and the garments superbly crafted. A far cry from the badly crafted collections that are coming out........Roksanda Ilincic being the most guilty here......with most saying she lacked the couture skills to pull off the collection she showed.

Christopher Kane S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Christopher Kane was another designer everyone was waiting for this season. Yep this is where "Planet of the Apes"served as the inspiration to the designer.......yup interesting. He does tend to overstate the one detail he picks up on.....last season it was the layers and layers of ruffles and this season its circle upon circle of organza. If I thought that I did not get this collection then I was fortunately not alone in that boat of confusion. The one thing though that must be said is that as a new designer to the scene he was trying to bring a commercial sense to the collection. The circle cutting was not all that new and if anyone cared to remember Valentino 3 seasons ago then one would note it was all premiered there. This was the boy that was touted as being able to assist Donatella Versace in breathing new life into the Versace brand.........he worked a bit with her and then it all fizzled out.........no one knows what really went on there.

Louise Goldin S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Kane was still great compared to Louise Goldin. Goldin known for her innovative take on knitwear showed a collection..............well you decide............That ubiquitous word 'interesting' reared its head post show which actually translates into : I'm not quite sure what that was about and I am not sure whether I missed something but I would rather reserve full judgement and take some time to digest it all and/or it was just an assault on my sense of taste!

Giles Deacon S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Giles (Giles Deacon) aka Pac Man showed another collection which was as he said "ridiculously simple but incredibly graphic". Again this was a collection that featured simple silhouettes with strong graphic colour blocking done in the construction of the dresses which again had everyone muttering that Giles has "grown up"..........in fashion speak it would mean: Yes he has gotten over that experimental phase where he needed the attention and now he is into trying to create a consumer base for his clothes.

Richard Nicoll S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira

So far Australian designer Richard Nicoll showed a strong collection. New takes on the classic T-shirt and pants with a clean sporty look and really great use of colour. In fact its not easy for a designer to take colours that are sometimes on the verge of bad taste and make it look fab in a garment. I liked this collection. Established Brit brands like Aquascutum, Mulberry, Jaeger and House of Holland showed interesting collections which were clear attempts at revitalising the staid perception of their brands and attracting a younger clientele without alienating their existing clients.

What I did find interesting was last week Marc Jacobs showed an eclectic and layered collection largely inspired by Broadway, American country naïveté and American designer Perry Ellis. Zany accessories and hats reigned supreme..........and the colours were electric, metallic tweeds, shot Lurex plaids and ginghams all in one melting pot but cleverly put together. Now it was interesting to see just how many designers seemed to have thrown in that multi-layered approach in their styling........down to the hats and in one collection even the same soundtrack ('Rhapsody in Blue' by George Gershwin) as Jacobs.............copying/inspiration it seems has no limits and sometimes no shame.........London being no exception......

LAUGHS AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

2008-09-14T04:10:00.000-07:00

REFLECTIONS ON NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

2008-09-13T09:01:00.000-07:00

The Spring|Summer 09 collections are on at present and I was really interested by all the designers inspirations for their collections. Off course all the trends are pretty much the same and all the silhouettes are repeated in most of the collections so far but for me there are a few that stood out all for various reasons.........the following collections and thoughts engrossed my mind over the last few days.

Chado Ralph Rucci S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira/Firstview.com

Firstly it was great to see Chado Ralph Rucci on show (I love the name. FYI 'Chado' is the name of a traditional Japanese tea drinking ceremony symbolizing respect, tranquility and integrity). He is really a designer who has impeccable craftsmanship and like the tea drinking ceremony has an austere sense of style. In fact only the second designer to be invited by Paris’ Chambre Syndicale to show on schedule at the Couture collections in Paris. He had a 'sabbatical' to Paris recently but is back in New York and has a small atelier on 7th Avenue run by his sister. His 2009 collection was a follow on from his last Winter collection. Laser cut jackets and wool insets on tulle created a very structured collection with strong architectural influences. Muted colours reigned supreme and the intricate geometric tailoring and construction made this collection one which only those with a refined appreciation of clothing as art and couture could take in. Rucci is an artist himself and his has an extensive collection of art from up-and-coming artists. He often collaborates with them to create new prints or references them in his collections. For his shows he has mostly collaborated with Thomas Newman (film score composer) to create the music. I mention all of these as I think it is something back here in SA we are often scared of doing........i.e. collaborating. Pooling creative talents in attaining the final look is sometimes crucial to the final product. If you ever get to see this designer's collection then you will understand the level detail he goes into in producing and showing a collection. I loved this collection...........

Vera Wang S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira/Firstview.com

Vera Wang showed a collection that was inspired by proto-pop French artist Niki de Saint Phalle. Garments were layered and embellished with abstract geometric sequin shapes with interesting colour blocking. Layers of transparent gazars in citron, mandarin and bronze were overlaid on solid bases to create a relaxed take on post modern boho chic. This collection was a strong attempt at creating a unique signature for her ready to wear away from the 'oh so pretty' wedding dress empire she has established. The buzz was that this collection had a 'newness' to it to please Wang's loyal clientele but also strong enough to attract new clients as well. The chunky cameo type jewellery was a collaboration between Wang and jewellery designer Janis Savitt. Wang echoed all the trend silhouettes this season..........skinny cigarette pants........the slouchy relaxed fitting dresses and the ethereal lightness of layering fabrics.

Ralph Lauren S|S 2009 Photographer: Marcio Madeira & Maria Valentino/Firstview.com

Ralph Lauren took a trip down to North Africa this season for his collection and one could not help but think of Yves Saint Laurent's take on this in the 70's. In true Lauren style the collection was a balanced mix of wearable separates. The fabrics were luxurious and ranged from laminated linens in olive, beige linens, cream silk satins, black, parachute silk in bronze and the ever present gold that Lauren loves so much. If anything he added to the relaxed and slouchy feel that is coming through so strongly in the collections this season. The pants sat on the hip and were caught mid calf or ankle - think harem pants but not as traditional worn with double belts. Oh and the jumpsuit made its biggest comeback in this collection.....so we can look foward to that making a huge return in the months to come. The over the top turbans set the tone for the collections but entrenched the collection and in some way I cannot help but think that it also added to another important debate going on at the moment when it comes to the catwalks. Lauren used a large contingent of black models this season (yep 5 out of 20 models on show was major news!) and was probably the only designer who addressed this issue in his show........he closed with Somalian model Ubah Hassan.

A good start but lets see if this continues in the collections to come. There were many other collections that caught my eye........ Marchesa (my money is on Oscar nominees wearing these gowns. This presentation was held at the Chelsea Art Museum with models on white cubes. Twenty four exquisite pieces that left you drooling for more.

Marchesa S|S 2009

Phi super cool label that presented interesting takes on the seasons staples. Again inspired by Ettore Sottsass the highly influential designer/architect of the 60's. Intricately pleated dresses and a new take on the 80's silhouettes were major standouts.

THE SOUND OF SILENCE....................

2008-09-11T03:15:00.001-07:00

EDVARD MUNCH 'The Scream' 1893

What's been really interesting is the number of calls and emails that I have received after starting this blog. Quite clearly it seems that there are many people who share my sentiments and who whilst reading it found that they could relate to some of what I had written. Whilst I have to say this is encouraging I wonder why they never said or did anything about it before. Afraid perhaps?

It always puzzles me to think that we are all in this industry together and if we collectively stand together we will be able to overcome many of these fears. This is meant to be our industry and surely we should all be having a say in the direction and the shape that it takes on in the future? I suppose as one of my colleagues this morning said to me that if you do make a 'noise' or challenge something then you run the risk of being labeled a rabble-rouser or being far too outspoken...... like I am. Well shoot me if you want but are we not all born with the innate ability to speak our minds? Are we not here to make sure that our interests and rights are safeguarded? Is it not our constitutional right to defend the the things that we hold close to our hearts? If we continuously just listen, obey and follow are we not part of a dictatorship..........?

If fear is the thing that holds us back then what is it that we are actually afraid of? Are we afraid that we will no longer cut the grade to be on guestlists, be featured on TV, hob nob with the 'fashion police'.........or risk being branded insubordinate? By remaining silent where would it get you long term? Will you be able to sit back and say that you actualised your full potential unconditionally? When will you (those that have emailed and called) realise that your fears are what holds you back. Your fear to speak out against things which are unfair/unjust is what inhibits your growth from a business and personal perspective. If there is one thing that I have learnt is that you should stay true to yourself. People may not appreciate hearing the truth or being told it but once they are able to get over their egos or insecurities they will hopefully value your honesty. The price you pay for speaking your mind might be a few noses out of joint but in the end its worth having your integrity intact.

The sound of silence comes with a price tag attached to it................one you can't really afford in life!

"What are fears but voices airy?

Whispering harm where harm is not.

And deluding the unwary

Till the fatal bolt is shot!" Wordsworth

I am a bit tired with all the this fashion freedom fighter writing so I am going lighter on the next blog! This does not stop any of you suggesting other contentious topics up for discussion.............................

GAVIN RAJAH COUTURE S|S 08

2008-09-10T13:42:00.000-07:00

GAVIN RAJAH COUTURE (PARIS)
SPRING | SUMMER 08
SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE PLAZA ATHENEE IN PARIS
CREDITS: PARIS PLANETFASHION

THE VELVET MAFIA.............

2008-09-09T22:58:00.000-07:00

I received an interesting email from someone (who did not want to be named buts lets just call her JB) this morning which really made my spine tingle.......well ok it just got me thinking! JB asked me if I ever felt that there was some kind of society/fraternity/sect that watches the fashion industry from the sidelines and tries to control the way forward.........
For a second I let out a giggle but then stopped to think about this a bit more and realised that actually we do have a bit of 'organised crime' in the industry not quite the velvet mafia as they certainly lack the requisite appreciation of good taste and the savvy of just being downright fashionable in every sense of the word........

I sat back thinking of the fashion mags and their editors.......now here's something interesting. Ever notice how much air kissing is done at shows when fashion editors are around. Designers go into a state of pre-orgasmic abandon (mostly faking it!) in the hope that the wannabe Anna Wintours of this world feature their garments in their next fashion spread. Off course this is called 'relationship building' but ever wonder why some designers are just not featured? Probably because they don't kiss butt that well or they don't necessarily think that they have to bow down in reverence to these demi-gods? A designer colleague tells me a story of how he has been excluded from a certain magazine (considered to be the bastion in style in SA) because he does not see eye to eye with the editor (neither do I but then again I was never much for supporting magazines with poor circulations figures!). Were this designer to be advertising in this magazine it would be interesting to see just how much his butt would be kissed. Internationally its about who gets more bang for their buck...i.e the more you advertise the more you are the darling of the magazine and the more your clothes are featured in editorials. In SA I can count on one hand the number of editors that are actively communicative with designers and take the time to visit their studios to view merchandise.......Conde Nast, Associated Magazines (only Cosmpolitan really) and some titles at Media 24 being the most diligent in my experience. What happens to the rest?

Only recently did we have magazines feature editorial from black designers across the board. Scarily their names continue to be incorrectly spelt........go figure. With all the talk of cheap imports it is also interesting to note just how many magazines feature stores that stock this type of merchandise...........

The other part of the velvet mafia is made up of fashion council members - an interesting mix of people - some designers, academics, factory owners, media personalities, government type officials and an interesting foreigner or two thrown in for good measure. Now the good Lord should forbid that you disagree or have an opinion other then the council.(leave alone implement something that they have hair splitting meetings about over and over again ). They talk openly about transparency but remain as about as transparent as a nun's habit. All tasked with developing the industry and hell bent on showing how much they have done for the industry. If throwing millions at a fashion week is developing the industry, including selecting the designers for inclusion in the line-up then one must ask how democratic this is...........or how fair it is in plain terms? I think it is incredibly short sighted (couldn't resist) for this Oracle of Delphi to sit back and think it has all the answers to the future of the industry. I certainly don't but there are definately a few more people out there with less hidden agendas. Even if there are those who sit on this council who can make a difference I often wonder if they have the voice to do so. I do hope that at some point they realise they will have to justify their actions/decisions and that sooner or later people will demand this. After all let's also just remind ourselves its taxpayer's money that keeps this lot sitting in the front rows.

The last crowd can't really be considered important enough to be part of the velvet mafia but they do warrant mention as they do in fact put in the most effort........fashion week organisers. Now here's an interesting lot. They are divided into 2 camps and have different perspectives on who 'owns' fashion in SA. They do try hard but they have also learnt that designers don't always fall for their dangling carrots and will easily change platforms on a mere whim or for the right price. Its common knowledge that designers have been lured under the guise of being 'sponsored' to show at various fashion weeks. Suddenly just thought of that Tina Turner song 'Private Dancer'............
Anyway this lot need cash to stage events so they end up having to smile through clenched teeth and listening to sponsors/councils/provincial government/imbeciles and adhering to all the conditions....yep chances are they don't have as much control as they should have and they are relegated to being fashionable ambulance chasers.......trying to lure designers to show on their platforms. Money does talk hence the bull**** on the catwalk........

So I suppose the velvet mafia does exist in a way but its really about what importance you associate to them. I mean really would you take them seriously...................you don't really take Robert Mugabe seriously but what he has inflicted on Zimbabwe is serious enough.........so its kind of like that JB!

WELCOME TO MY WORLD......

2008-09-09T12:16:00.000-07:00

Not sure how this is going to go down but I suppose I have done this a few times before and more then anything found it cathartic in the extreme........alternatively I pissed off a few people oh and I think made some good friends out of it. So if you are wondering if this is an attempt at giving you my opinion on fashion, posting pictures of badly dressed people or snappy dressers or just a platform to share my opinion.........well you darn right!

As opposed to many other PC blogs I hope this does not deteriorate to a dreary expose of Long St in Cape Town, exalting badly designed (or made) product or even worse a saccharine coated showcase of the mundane and mediocre.
Having said all of this please don't feel obliged to follow this blog nor think it's a panacea to fashion in SA or your personal wardrobe crisis........I hope it evolves into something more then just hemlines for the season..........

So lets get started...........
I think that this blog will feature things that interest me as a designer and hopefully will give you some insight into what makes me do the things I do, say the things I say and the myriad of things that inspire me. Yeah as I said you don't have to read on.........you might do better and start your own blog!!!!!
Oh and do feel free to comment after all I like healthy discussion and debate........

Let's start with fashion since I am a designer and its something that consumes most of day........
Post fashion week malaise has set in for many designers in SA and whilst some of us are riding the success of our shows I can't help feeling sorry for those that are sitting back wondering ...'What now...?' This season was possibly the weakest line-up we have had in years ....and we all sit back and ask ourselves why? Well it would seem there are numerous reasons for this:

Fashion Week organisers are bound by sponsors to include young designers
Be overtly politically correct. Lord forbid they (orgainsers/selection committes/fashion councils or any other wannabe owners of fashion) should not be seen to be supporting crafters or unknown brands fresh out of fashion school

Off course most of you would know that I have already been attacked for being 'arrogant' and misquoted as not being supportive of young designers. Quite the opposite I would say as I am all for supporting young designers and giving them a break but I am also all for making sure that they are well equipped to sustain the hype of showing at a fashion week and they have a life after fashion week. Its not easy producing a collection...........its harder to make sure that you have all the elements to make for a commercially viable collection and beyond your wildest dreams to expect that your first collection will be a sell out and that it will cover the costs of manufacturing your garments for the show. I wonder how many of those designers will be mentored and assisted in transforming their creativity into businesses that are successful and sustainable.......

Who will be there when things unravel? The sponsors that sponsor a fashion week? The organisers? No one wants any fledgling business to fail but what are the chances that these young brands will survive without the continuous support. Are we allowing designers to show under the banner of development in the industry? What are the criteria for designers showing on a fashion week?

Just in case anyone feels that I have no idea of what its like to first enter the industry let me remind you that I burnt my fingers a million times over and slogged for seven years before I was able to create a sustainable business. I was crazy enough to believe those many years ago that creative talent was the only thing that was needed and doing fashion shows were the ultimate solution in establishing my brand.......how wrong I was.

The purpose of a fashion week is to grow an industry and create new markets for designers. If designers are allowed to show collections with badly manufactured garments then what precedent are we setting? Are we saying that its ok...........what does it do for the overall image of the industry? Badly set in sleeves, hideous fabrication and down right bad quality is unacceptable. It's time that we stopped feeling sorry and set standards in this industry. What of the poor designers who actually are being used as vehicles to access funding for these events? What of designers that are being funded to produce collections (and bad one's at that!) for these events? What about other suitably qualified and experienced designers......... Let's not go down that road of trying to teach a man to fish.......................

For those wanting to read more on this debate/discussion read Jacquie Myburgh's opinion piece.