Tuesday, September 30, 2008


D Squared S|S 2009 'Charlie's Angels' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Interesting take on the 70's with some snazzy tailoring and the best quality from Dean and Dan Caten so far. The over top twins were inspired by 'Charlie's Angels' and in particular Farah Fawcett. Oversized jewelled neck pieces, belts and harnesses on fluid jersey dresses through you back to the days of Halston and Studio 54. Sharp wide leg denim pants and fitted jackets teamed with American plaid shirts were strong looks. The in your face spaced out 90's rock star glam was replaced by a quieter (still sultry) contemporary sexiness.

Christian Dior S|S 2009 'Tribal' Photographer: Alessandro Lucioni

A dilution of the last couture collection John Galliano was just not in the same form as is his previous collections. If you think he went quieter then maybe creative silence would best describe the collection. The signature porn star shoes remained but had African fertility dolls as heels.......same for the neckpieces. Bodices on dresses were beaded with cowrie shells and a distorted polka dot print almost took on a leopard print. If this was Dior's way of trying to reign the designer in and make for a more commercial collection then to an extent the silhoeuttes were wearable however not sure if the transparency will cut it? Maybe Carla Bruni for her next state visit will need to ask for linings to be added to some of the gossamer light gowns that were presented which all had the 20's type bathing suit bottoms underneath it all...........Python skin was huge in this collection...and in Prada. Overall not quite the collection one would expect but then again maybe Dior is heading for change..........

Versace S|S 2009 'Tough Love' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Donatella has cleaned up Versace or so the buzz was in Milan. The collection was pared down and this season she used hearts as a motif for her collection. She cleverly used zip detail and zipper teeth to form heart shapes on garments. Whilst the collection was ready to wear it had many couture type details and she correctly added that people who were buying pret a porter want to see details and workmanship. A neat collection which still had the Versace edge to it but far more sophisticated. This was a great follow on from her resort collection which had already premiered many of the season's popular looks. Versace it seems is heading in a new direction and most buyers seemed impressed and ready to spend again on this collection.

Maison Martin Margiela S|S 2009 'Bon Anniversaire' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Martin Margiela celebrated 20 years on the scene and sent down a collection to rapturous applause. Whilst many were at the show in Paris to celebrate the success and the zany if not completely OTT signature style of the house........many were there to see whether the enigmatic Martin could still serve up a dose of madness. True to his reputation he did not fail........this included sending down a birthday cake of gargantuan proportions down the runway. Wigs, wigs and more wigs covered models faces and created a an eery if not surreal collection. Conceptual in the extreme but with all the technical competence and mastery of a house and designer worthy of celebrating 20 years in fashion.

Gianfranco Ferre S|S 2009 'Geometry' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are the duo from 6267 that have taken over at Ferre. This collection was architectural (not surprising since Mon Ferre did train as an architect) but more then anything it was modern and wearable with the perfect balance of 'show only' pieces and enough separates and suits to be a commercial success. Amazing construction and much better then the job being done at Valentino by Fachinetti...........

D&G S|S 2009 'Cote Azure' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The second line at Dolce & Gabbana, D&G was nautical. Stripes, stars, gold emblems, sailors knots and nautical flags were abound in all the collection. The duo borrowed their inspiration from Coco Chanel........the tweed, stripes and drop waisted dresses were all there. An interesting collection but not sure the 50's maillots are going to be such a hit for the D&G clientele who tend to be young and far more 'out there'.

Balmain S|S 2009 'Bling Rock' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Christophe Decarnin sent a collection out to the pounding sounds of Madonna. Whilst this opening show to Paris Fashion Week set the tone and energy it was also a flash back to the 80's. The brash and loud designs of Gianni Versace came screaming back at your memory but this collection was anything but a re-hash. It was a clever interpretation with clever and unique details. Two most interesting details stand out and mark my words they are about to be copied pretty soon by many others out there. Firstly the sleeve with the peaked crown was an interesting addition to jackets. The second thing which was an interesting detail was the suede dresses which were left raw and unfinished.......

Dolce & Gabbana S|S 2009 'Pigiama Baroque' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The actual theme behind the collection were pyjamas! The duo cleverly used traditional masculine shapes and subverted them in the cut and details to create a sexy and sleek collection. There was an interesting mix of fabrics with some garments having up to 5 different types of brocades in the construction. Fluid pyjama weight failles, satins and crepes were combined to create a relaxed feel. Even though some of the garments looked overtly constructed the feel was soft to the touch. Unlike many designers this season the duo wanted to create garments that loooked structured but were still comfortable to wear. Heavily jewelled belts accessorised garments to create cinched waists and the clutch bags became the new jewellery this season for Dolce & Gabbana. Heavily beaded and embellished bags, including ones made from porcupine quills added to the luxe value of the collection........

Bottega Veneta S|S 2009 'Modern American Prairie' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

I love this brand but not the clothes....give me the bags and accessories any day. Maier, the designer said that this season the clothes were not about being ostentatious......I agree Bottega Veneta is not about screaming logos or for the nouveau riche.......its for the discerning......Whilst the leather is the best available in the world and this season the butter soft leather dresses were amazing..the rest could have been a contemporary wardrobe for 'Little House on the Prairie'..........rich women playing poor....................

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