GAVIN RAJAH CRUISE 2016

BALENCIAGA - THE ART OF CONSTRUCTION

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

A good couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for temperance.” Cristobal Balenciaga

Hard work, respect for tradition, exacting standards standards and a quest for a definitive presence, Cristobal Balenciaga was the purest servant of Haute Couture. Cristobal Balenciaga would spend his entire life exploring the alchemy of clothing and the beauty of couture. At the epicentre of this existence would be his total mastery of art which resulted in the House’s ultimate signature: the simplicity of the cut. This is Balenciaga’s legacy.

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

Balenciaga would put all of his energy into the construction of clothing, painstakingly breaking apart its structure in search of its secrets, like a puzzle continuously reworked and simplified in order to resemble perfection and the simplicity of a single line.

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

BALENCIAGA par Nicolas Ghesquière, Collection Automne/ Hiver 2010/11

Season after season he entrenched this until he gained world notoriety as a genius architect of fashion.

From Cristobal Balenciaga to Nicolas Ghesquière, the space is steeped in an atmosphere both rigorous and whimsical. Between the experimentation of couture and the morale of the cut. In the House of Balenciaga, there is the couturier who obeys the rules of style, but also the artist who embraces the realm of dreams.

www.balenciaga.com

OUT OF THE BLUE - SWAROVSKI INSPIRATION AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

Mystery, silence and serenity. Inspired by the frozen waters of Nordic landscapes, where the horizon merges into the sky, Swarovski’s new Autumn/Winter collection for 2010/11 features minimalist lines which allow the sheer luxury of crystal to shine through.
Nathalie Colin, Creative Director at Swarovski, wanted to go right back to basics this time. Clean lines, simple colours, materials in perfect symbiosis, and at the forefront – crystal. With this collection of evening bags and jewellery, she invites you to travel into an infinite fantasy land and to reconnect with your innermost self. “Each accessory is an expression of inner luxury and revisits the most essential value of today – the purity of the soul. Here, crystal is imbued with the reviving, purifying and sensual virtues of nature’s most powerful elements, such as water in all its forms.”
In this new chapter of the “Beyond Nature” trilogy, crystal adorns evening bags and jewellery in refined, mineral-inspired shapes.

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

The true spirit of haute couture can be seen in each iconic, timeless piece, thanks to the expertise of the Daniel Swarovski line which is applied to this collection. These jewellery pieces and accessories will be sold exclusively in selected Swarovski boutiques worldwide.

Natalie Colin - Creative Director for Swarovski

TRENDS SUMMARY SPRING SUMMER 2011

Here are some of the key trends for fashion designers and students for Spring/Summer 2011. Whilst there are many other descriptions and a few subsidiary ones these remain (for me) the one's that are key for collections that will be out next Spring/Summer. Would love to have your thoughts on the trends!

TREND 1: FLIP FLOP RAINBOW

Holographic Print

Altuglas

Fibre Optics

Inspirations
Holographic moiré and polarized highlights, striated glass and prismatic diffractions, aluminated highlights and chromatic flickers, distorted shapes and lenticular flip-flops diffract colours in a techno-manga rainbow.
Trend Accents

• Polarised transparency 
• Rainbow shades 
• Optical illusions 
• Prismatic highlights 
• Chromatic shimmers 
• Hologram moiré

Colours

• Frosted Glass 
• Smiley Orange 
• Kauaï Pink    
• Powdered Violet 
• Rapidograph Blue

Clothing Trim and Details
Rainbow piping, ribbons and braids. Straps and braiding in multicoloured PVC. Buttons, bits and buckles in polarized Altuglas. Chromatic flowers and facetted crystals. Hologram transfers and vectorized motifs. Feather boas in shades of colours. Sulphurated-style glass beads. PVC magnifying glasses and lenticular labels. Flammée aluminium and metallic moirés. Fibre optic cords and braids

TREND 2: SMILEY DRUGSTORE







 

Clothes Pegs

Pop Art Advertisements - John Clem Clark

Dishcloth Fabrics

Inspirations
Foam blocks and duos of laminated materials, functional simplicity and hints of colour, packaging nets and woven plastics, tea towel fabric and non-woven dusting cloths, play a mischievous game with humble and domestic design.
Trend Accents

• Acid treated household plastics 
• Striped dishcloth fabrics 
• Pop Art advertisements 
• Two-tone foam blocks 
• Micro-relief rubber floor tiles 
• Quilted waxed cotton

Colours 

• Laundry Blue    
• Pop Orange 
• Off White    
• Coral Red 
• Firefly Green

Clothing Trim and Details
Bottle-top buttons and buckles. Clips like multicolour clothes pegs. Straps and ribbons in soft plastic. Printed waxed cotton and fused flannel. Soft plastic lace and net packaging. Foam blocks and “scourer” pompoms. “Soap powder” transfers and labels. Dishcloth fabric and reflective braid.  Adhesive tape-style bias and RGB worker tarpaulin. Braided floral prints for housecoats

TREND 3: WONDERLAND

 

'Phantasmagoria -Visions by Lewis Caroll' by Marilyn Manson

'Two of Hearts' - Katherine Pardue

Gingham Patchwork

Toile de Jouy

Beatrix Potter

Glossopetrae

Inspirations
Retro-kitsch porcelains and glossopetrae, checked plaid blankets, playing cards, lace and flounces like Alice in Wonderland. Garden gazebos and wicker trellis take us through the looking glass to a pop art and surrealist picnic inspired by Lewis Carroll.
Trend Accents

• Alice in Wonderland & Lewis Caroll
• Cottage Tea Party
• Victorian Romanticism
• Surrealist Dandyism
• Magic Garden

Colours

• Powdered Violet
• Firefly Green 
• Laundry blue    
• Supernatural Brown
• Rose Water

Clothing Trim and Details
Bamboo buckles, wicker-style netting. Enameled flowers and toadstools. Porcelain medallions and pottery brooches. Recoloured black and white engraved labels. Straw hat and festooned flounces. Cross-stitch bucolic canvas . Gingham, playing card motifs and Toile de Jouy. Necktie ribbons and lace of model children. Mother of pearl buttons and Beatrix Potter ribbons. Dandy elastic braid and smocked flounces

TREND 4: JURASSIC PARK





 

Fractalized Photography

Vegetal Lace

Reptilian Skins

Tribal Inspired Tattoos

 
Inspirations
Strange flowers and green technologies, tribal opulance and eco-cities, chameleon skins and solar energy, fossil amber and organic design, deconstructivism and desert cities announce a new age, an earthy and luxurious future.
Trend Accents

• Carnivorous plants and flowers
• Desert Eco-towns
• Organic design
• Fossil stones
• Tribal opulence
• Vegetal biotechnologies

Colours 

• Powdered Violet
• Dinosaurus Brown 
• Firefly Green
• Seaweeds Fossil Yellow

Clothing and Trim Details
Vegetal lace and honeycombed netting. Fossil ambers and insect inclusion. Semi-precious stones and mineral crystallisations. Reptilian skins and chameleon leathers. Fractalized prints and tribal tattoos. Oversize buckles and metallic enhancements. Armoured bibs like solar panels. Stretch tie-and-dye and mimetic camouflages. Insect embroideries and entomological curiosities. Electroplating and organic resin mouldings

TREND 5: ABYSSES

Radiolaria

Medusa

Mother of Pearl

Gorgon with Medusa Head

Mother of Pearl Shell

 

Inspirations
Undulating fragility of Medusian organza, protozoan laces and sparkly iridescence, scalloped transparencies and infinite delicacy, floating materials or the gracefulness of invisibility and transparency.
Trend Accents

• Coral reef 
• Undulating transparencies
• Mother-of-pearl iridesence
• Fossil micro-plancton
• Hermaphrodite molluscs
• Underwater invisibility

Colours

• Coral Red 
• Pink Light 
• Frosted Glass

Clothing and Trim Details
Cowrie shells. Rag(cotton) paper. Gorgon laces and medusan organza. Jewel buttons and ornate Venetian glass. Radiolarian flowers in quilted jersey or PVC.  Coral jewels, starfish and sea shells. Milky transparency and iridescent sequins. Sea anemone fringes and translucent silicon. Coatings and macroscopic structures. Asymmetric pleats as fish wings and microfibre. Piping and fluorescent accents.  Printed neoprene and waterproof coatings

TREND 6: PORTO ALEGRE

Driftwood

 

Chambray

Madras Check

Fishing 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madras Check

 
Inspirations
Beachside sunset and unrefined ocean materials, weathered woods and sandblasted resins, worn straps and fraying cords, fishnet nylon and iridescent rubber, artificial flowers and Madras jersey invite us to share in the tropical nonchalance of a new Eden.
Trend Accents

• Driftwood and washed-out floats 
• Cable cords and laminated voiles 
• Neon baits and lures 
• Fishing nets and technical nylons 
• Bleached jeans and tie-dye denim
• Recycled rubber

Colours

• Icy Melon    
• Pop Orange 
• Abyssal    
• Laundry Blue 
• Terracotta

Clothing Trim and Details
Fishing-net netting and industrial mesh. Chambray bias and faded denim piping. Digital Madras and Batik prints. Driftwood buttons and belts corroded by salt. Buttons, heels and buckles in aged cork. Woven braids and cords in ragged nylon. Souvenir jewels in bleached sea shells. Flowers in beach wear jersey or iridescent PVC. Rusty or  uncoated metal  detailing. Transfers on dyed denim and faded leather.

TREND 7:  RECYCLEDESIGN

Moire

 

Honeycomb Pleating

Honeycomb Detailing

Melamine Yellow Honeycomb

 
Inspirations
Salvaged, compressed, agglomerated, woven, frayed, or the individual creations of a new recycled luxury that turns design on its head. The sensuality of the lines and the poetry of this new Arte Povera place the emphasis on materials before addressing shape and function.
Trend Accents

• Green design materials
• Eco-design
• Fun chaos
• Arts and crafts salvage
• Artistic compression
• Recycled vintage textures

Colours

• Melamine yellow
• Frosted Glass 
• Pink light
• Rag Paper 
• Seaweeds

Clothing and Trim Details
Rag-weaving from salvaged textiles. Technical fasteners in compressed aluminium. Cords and ties like electric cables . Buttons in pellets of recycled glass. Buckles in sawdust chipboard. Jewels from electronic components. Patchwork tarpaulins in recycled PVC. Moiré rubber and rainbow straps. Web of recycled jeans and leather goods. Summer crochets in vintage wool and re-knits

TREND 8: RAG PAPER

Swarovski Crystal Fabric

Paper Lace

Laser Cut Buttons, Wood & Paper

Inspirations
Ammonia blue and tracing paper effect, watermarks and grid formations, waxed lacy paper and textured micro-structures take their inspiration from the new nobility of recycled and technical papers to create experimental and artistic designs.
Trend Accents

• Art and craft paper
• Body Art prints
• The art of folding
• Filigree designs 
• Honeycombed technical kraft paper
• Pop-up laser cutouts

Colours
Terracotta
Newsprint Grey
Pink light
Cowrie
Rapidograph Blue





Clothing Trim and Details
Tracing paper transparencies, cellophane and crystal paper. Monetic filigree and millimetre squared paper. T-shirt transfers, asymptotes and charcoal sketches. Asymmetric pleats like fans. Flounces and braid in non-woven paper. Buckles and bits in vulcanised dyed kraft paper. Dry embossed motifs for labels. Buttons, beads, origami geometric shapes. Honeycombed structures and technical ruffles. Micro-waffling, cut-outs and crepe-paper lace

Courtesy ModaMont & Farouk Chekoufi

CHANEL RESORT COLLECTION 2011 - ST TROPEZ

Opening the collection, models basked in the sun and arrived in mahogany boats to stroll long the port, looking for a table on the terrace. The show began unexpectedly with a quirky edge to it.
With micro-minis, high-waisted dresses and light blouses, Karl Lagerfeld brought the symbols of t CHANEL to meet his idea of Saint-Tropez today. While punctuated with black and white, color  was thrown in for good measure - amber browns, absinthe and mint greens, sky and navy blues, and bright pinks appeared in block-colors as well as in the prints. Light little dresses were presented with many interesting proportions. Some showed knees and others flirted with ankles - a play on seduction appropriate for any time of day......... delicate sequinned ruffles, tweeded gossamer and fringed chiffon reigned supreme in the collection. 

A pastel palette was mixed with brights in cotton silhouettes which featured lightly flared pants and pleated blouses worn with large belts. Jeans remained an essential piece this season for Chanel; whether colored or washed, crystal-studded or fringed, they were worn as a second skin. 

Beachy dresses, frilled bikinis and little sweaters with short sleeves had touches of vichy prints. Tweed jackets and cardigans were worn with chiffon blouses, and the famous CHANEL suit saw yet again another reinterpretation. Embroidered tweed was worn with bare legs teamed with a low heels or gold leather grecian sandals. White or black broderie anglaise was teamed up with openwork leather, and the unsuspecting combination ended up being a perfect match!
Casual-chic looks in suede were decorated with embroideries with diamond-shaped stitching, while knitwear made a statement with black, white, pink and multicolored stripes decorated with trim or mixed with guipure lace. For the beach, cage dresses worn over swimsuits suggested a silhouette that was all about a reserved seduction and quiet sexiness.

Leather sandals in electric colors, bags and totes in patchwork or vichy tweed, and pearl belts brought a sparkling allure to the  balmy nights resort nights of St Tropez!

GAVIN RAJAH COUTURE S|S 08

GAVIN RAJAH COUTURE (PARIS)
SPRING | SUMMER 08
SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE PLAZA ATHENEE IN PARIS
CREDITS: PARIS PLANETFASHION