GAVIN RAJAH CRUISE 2016

DANIELLA MIDENGE SHOOTS FOR MARIE CLAIRE FEATURING GAVIN RAJAH

Our gorgeous pants shot in the May issue of Marie Claire by photographer Daniella Midenge. We love this shot! Model Jenna Pietersen

MORE TRENDs - Li Edelkoort says birds are the next best thing!

Birds!

We will continue our journey to connect with nature, but this time with the animals.

As she predicts:

“Our relationship with nature and animals is going to deepen,” predicts Li, whose informative and inspirational seminars outline the styles, materials, colours and marketing strategies that will be important in years to come. “I don’t think trends can get better than they are at the moment.”

On fashion the focus will be on blurred edges and visual texture, reminiscent of soft, yellow chicks. Fabrics will be soft, cuddly and tactile.

Swans - traditionally associated with dancing, will continue to have an influence: that means we will see more lace, tulle and fluttering knits. Water birds will influence the colour palette: expect to see blue, grey and green, with the pea coat taking centre stage as a key item of the season.

Urban birds - colours will be bleak, echoing concrete, and abstract patterns will dominate garments. The healthy, slow lifestyle associated with peasant poultry will also leave its mark: we’ll wear honest clothes in warm, deep colours and vintage prints.

More Inspirations: weaver birds and their nests, with fabrics made from hand-spun yarns. The coloured coats of singing birds will inspire us to wear sophisticated brights, while birds of prey will move us towards powerful neutrals, casual clothes and folk details.

Trends for Biomimicry and architecture beyond 2010, will focus on themes that once again emphasise our yearning for nature:

“My home is my nest”: weaver birds will inspire us – this time to construct “nests” for ourselves in which we use natural materials from our immediate surroundings. We’ll make use of irregular patterns in architecture and interior design, which will echo woven structures. Our nests will be counterbalanced by solid forms.

“My home is my earth”: The use of earthenware, terracotta and brick, already a growing trend, will remain important. We’ll match the colours of our buildings to our immediate surroundings and, as the planet becomes warmer, underground buildings will gain prominence. Irregular, organic forms will be popular.

“My home is my hide-out”: In an effort to reflect and respect nature, we’ll be camouflaging our buildings so that they blend with the natural environment. Our colour palette will be inspired by sandstone, slate, schist, lichen and honey, and glass and steel will be used as a way to reflect natural surroundings.

“My home is my landscape”: Interior landscaping will become a major trend. Taking inspiration from beavers, we’ll position our buildings so that it’s embedded in nature. The colours, patterns and structure of wood will gain importance.

“My home is our hive”: Due to the global population boom, humans are already becoming more interdependent. Architecture will amplify this idea of togetherness, and structures will be strong and geometric, echoing the hexagonal structures of bee hives. Rows will be embedded in design, and our colour palette will be inspired by honeycombs.

“My home is my cocoon”: Futuristic cocoons shapes will influence the architecture of temporary buildings, pavilions and tunnel tents. Structures will be slightly childlike and playful.

“My home is my web”: Spiderwebs are already fashionable, but this trend will be confirmed in years to come. Colours will be light, floating and sheer, and we’ll see buildings that are curtained with reflective materials. Textiles will be incorporated in buildings.

“My home is my armour”: Taking inspiration from armadillos, dark, metallic colours will become fashionable, and metal will become important once again. We’ll also start to see round, circular, spiral forms. Shell forms will come of age.

“My home is my masterpiece”: We’ll use colour, pattern, playful rhythm, cut-out metal and perforation to decorate our homes. Colours will be lively – even slightly crazy – and we’ll use fantasy to enhance the aesthetic of our buildings.

''Now that we have recovered from the worst and are experiencing a new fluidity of movement, the economy and therefore culture will take us to a higher plane for a new and even better perspective. In a positive and optimistic mood, fashion and design will take flight and give us wings on the road to new colors, more texture and exalting creativity'..  Li Edelkoort

TRENDS SUMMARY SPRING SUMMER 2011

Here are some of the key trends for fashion designers and students for Spring/Summer 2011. Whilst there are many other descriptions and a few subsidiary ones these remain (for me) the one's that are key for collections that will be out next Spring/Summer. Would love to have your thoughts on the trends!

TREND 1: FLIP FLOP RAINBOW

Holographic Print

Altuglas

Fibre Optics

Inspirations
Holographic moiré and polarized highlights, striated glass and prismatic diffractions, aluminated highlights and chromatic flickers, distorted shapes and lenticular flip-flops diffract colours in a techno-manga rainbow.
Trend Accents

• Polarised transparency 
• Rainbow shades 
• Optical illusions 
• Prismatic highlights 
• Chromatic shimmers 
• Hologram moiré

Colours

• Frosted Glass 
• Smiley Orange 
• Kauaï Pink    
• Powdered Violet 
• Rapidograph Blue

Clothing Trim and Details
Rainbow piping, ribbons and braids. Straps and braiding in multicoloured PVC. Buttons, bits and buckles in polarized Altuglas. Chromatic flowers and facetted crystals. Hologram transfers and vectorized motifs. Feather boas in shades of colours. Sulphurated-style glass beads. PVC magnifying glasses and lenticular labels. Flammée aluminium and metallic moirés. Fibre optic cords and braids

TREND 2: SMILEY DRUGSTORE







 

Clothes Pegs

Pop Art Advertisements - John Clem Clark

Dishcloth Fabrics

Inspirations
Foam blocks and duos of laminated materials, functional simplicity and hints of colour, packaging nets and woven plastics, tea towel fabric and non-woven dusting cloths, play a mischievous game with humble and domestic design.
Trend Accents

• Acid treated household plastics 
• Striped dishcloth fabrics 
• Pop Art advertisements 
• Two-tone foam blocks 
• Micro-relief rubber floor tiles 
• Quilted waxed cotton

Colours 

• Laundry Blue    
• Pop Orange 
• Off White    
• Coral Red 
• Firefly Green

Clothing Trim and Details
Bottle-top buttons and buckles. Clips like multicolour clothes pegs. Straps and ribbons in soft plastic. Printed waxed cotton and fused flannel. Soft plastic lace and net packaging. Foam blocks and “scourer” pompoms. “Soap powder” transfers and labels. Dishcloth fabric and reflective braid.  Adhesive tape-style bias and RGB worker tarpaulin. Braided floral prints for housecoats

TREND 3: WONDERLAND

 

'Phantasmagoria -Visions by Lewis Caroll' by Marilyn Manson

'Two of Hearts' - Katherine Pardue

Gingham Patchwork

Toile de Jouy

Beatrix Potter

Glossopetrae

Inspirations
Retro-kitsch porcelains and glossopetrae, checked plaid blankets, playing cards, lace and flounces like Alice in Wonderland. Garden gazebos and wicker trellis take us through the looking glass to a pop art and surrealist picnic inspired by Lewis Carroll.
Trend Accents

• Alice in Wonderland & Lewis Caroll
• Cottage Tea Party
• Victorian Romanticism
• Surrealist Dandyism
• Magic Garden

Colours

• Powdered Violet
• Firefly Green 
• Laundry blue    
• Supernatural Brown
• Rose Water

Clothing Trim and Details
Bamboo buckles, wicker-style netting. Enameled flowers and toadstools. Porcelain medallions and pottery brooches. Recoloured black and white engraved labels. Straw hat and festooned flounces. Cross-stitch bucolic canvas . Gingham, playing card motifs and Toile de Jouy. Necktie ribbons and lace of model children. Mother of pearl buttons and Beatrix Potter ribbons. Dandy elastic braid and smocked flounces

TREND 4: JURASSIC PARK





 

Fractalized Photography

Vegetal Lace

Reptilian Skins

Tribal Inspired Tattoos

 
Inspirations
Strange flowers and green technologies, tribal opulance and eco-cities, chameleon skins and solar energy, fossil amber and organic design, deconstructivism and desert cities announce a new age, an earthy and luxurious future.
Trend Accents

• Carnivorous plants and flowers
• Desert Eco-towns
• Organic design
• Fossil stones
• Tribal opulence
• Vegetal biotechnologies

Colours 

• Powdered Violet
• Dinosaurus Brown 
• Firefly Green
• Seaweeds Fossil Yellow

Clothing and Trim Details
Vegetal lace and honeycombed netting. Fossil ambers and insect inclusion. Semi-precious stones and mineral crystallisations. Reptilian skins and chameleon leathers. Fractalized prints and tribal tattoos. Oversize buckles and metallic enhancements. Armoured bibs like solar panels. Stretch tie-and-dye and mimetic camouflages. Insect embroideries and entomological curiosities. Electroplating and organic resin mouldings

TREND 5: ABYSSES

Radiolaria

Medusa

Mother of Pearl

Gorgon with Medusa Head

Mother of Pearl Shell

 

Inspirations
Undulating fragility of Medusian organza, protozoan laces and sparkly iridescence, scalloped transparencies and infinite delicacy, floating materials or the gracefulness of invisibility and transparency.
Trend Accents

• Coral reef 
• Undulating transparencies
• Mother-of-pearl iridesence
• Fossil micro-plancton
• Hermaphrodite molluscs
• Underwater invisibility

Colours

• Coral Red 
• Pink Light 
• Frosted Glass

Clothing and Trim Details
Cowrie shells. Rag(cotton) paper. Gorgon laces and medusan organza. Jewel buttons and ornate Venetian glass. Radiolarian flowers in quilted jersey or PVC.  Coral jewels, starfish and sea shells. Milky transparency and iridescent sequins. Sea anemone fringes and translucent silicon. Coatings and macroscopic structures. Asymmetric pleats as fish wings and microfibre. Piping and fluorescent accents.  Printed neoprene and waterproof coatings

TREND 6: PORTO ALEGRE

Driftwood

 

Chambray

Madras Check

Fishing 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madras Check

 
Inspirations
Beachside sunset and unrefined ocean materials, weathered woods and sandblasted resins, worn straps and fraying cords, fishnet nylon and iridescent rubber, artificial flowers and Madras jersey invite us to share in the tropical nonchalance of a new Eden.
Trend Accents

• Driftwood and washed-out floats 
• Cable cords and laminated voiles 
• Neon baits and lures 
• Fishing nets and technical nylons 
• Bleached jeans and tie-dye denim
• Recycled rubber

Colours

• Icy Melon    
• Pop Orange 
• Abyssal    
• Laundry Blue 
• Terracotta

Clothing Trim and Details
Fishing-net netting and industrial mesh. Chambray bias and faded denim piping. Digital Madras and Batik prints. Driftwood buttons and belts corroded by salt. Buttons, heels and buckles in aged cork. Woven braids and cords in ragged nylon. Souvenir jewels in bleached sea shells. Flowers in beach wear jersey or iridescent PVC. Rusty or  uncoated metal  detailing. Transfers on dyed denim and faded leather.

TREND 7:  RECYCLEDESIGN

Moire

 

Honeycomb Pleating

Honeycomb Detailing

Melamine Yellow Honeycomb

 
Inspirations
Salvaged, compressed, agglomerated, woven, frayed, or the individual creations of a new recycled luxury that turns design on its head. The sensuality of the lines and the poetry of this new Arte Povera place the emphasis on materials before addressing shape and function.
Trend Accents

• Green design materials
• Eco-design
• Fun chaos
• Arts and crafts salvage
• Artistic compression
• Recycled vintage textures

Colours

• Melamine yellow
• Frosted Glass 
• Pink light
• Rag Paper 
• Seaweeds

Clothing and Trim Details
Rag-weaving from salvaged textiles. Technical fasteners in compressed aluminium. Cords and ties like electric cables . Buttons in pellets of recycled glass. Buckles in sawdust chipboard. Jewels from electronic components. Patchwork tarpaulins in recycled PVC. Moiré rubber and rainbow straps. Web of recycled jeans and leather goods. Summer crochets in vintage wool and re-knits

TREND 8: RAG PAPER

Swarovski Crystal Fabric

Paper Lace

Laser Cut Buttons, Wood & Paper

Inspirations
Ammonia blue and tracing paper effect, watermarks and grid formations, waxed lacy paper and textured micro-structures take their inspiration from the new nobility of recycled and technical papers to create experimental and artistic designs.
Trend Accents

• Art and craft paper
• Body Art prints
• The art of folding
• Filigree designs 
• Honeycombed technical kraft paper
• Pop-up laser cutouts

Colours
Terracotta
Newsprint Grey
Pink light
Cowrie
Rapidograph Blue





Clothing Trim and Details
Tracing paper transparencies, cellophane and crystal paper. Monetic filigree and millimetre squared paper. T-shirt transfers, asymptotes and charcoal sketches. Asymmetric pleats like fans. Flounces and braid in non-woven paper. Buckles and bits in vulcanised dyed kraft paper. Dry embossed motifs for labels. Buttons, beads, origami geometric shapes. Honeycombed structures and technical ruffles. Micro-waffling, cut-outs and crepe-paper lace

Courtesy ModaMont & Farouk Chekoufi

SPRING|SUMMER 2009......HOT OR NOT?

D Squared S|S 2009 'Charlie's Angels' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Interesting take on the 70's with some snazzy tailoring and the best quality from Dean and Dan Caten so far. The over top twins were inspired by 'Charlie's Angels' and in particular Farah Fawcett. Oversized jewelled neck pieces, belts and harnesses on fluid jersey dresses through you back to the days of Halston and Studio 54. Sharp wide leg denim pants and fitted jackets teamed with American plaid shirts were strong looks. The in your face spaced out 90's rock star glam was replaced by a quieter (still sultry) contemporary sexiness.

Christian Dior S|S 2009 'Tribal' Photographer: Alessandro Lucioni

A dilution of the last couture collection John Galliano was just not in the same form as is his previous collections. If you think he went quieter then maybe creative silence would best describe the collection. The signature porn star shoes remained but had African fertility dolls as heels.......same for the neckpieces. Bodices on dresses were beaded with cowrie shells and a distorted polka dot print almost took on a leopard print. If this was Dior's way of trying to reign the designer in and make for a more commercial collection then to an extent the silhoeuttes were wearable however not sure if the transparency will cut it? Maybe Carla Bruni for her next state visit will need to ask for linings to be added to some of the gossamer light gowns that were presented which all had the 20's type bathing suit bottoms underneath it all...........Python skin was huge in this collection...and in Prada. Overall not quite the collection one would expect but then again maybe Dior is heading for change..........

Versace S|S 2009 'Tough Love' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Donatella has cleaned up Versace or so the buzz was in Milan. The collection was pared down and this season she used hearts as a motif for her collection. She cleverly used zip detail and zipper teeth to form heart shapes on garments. Whilst the collection was ready to wear it had many couture type details and she correctly added that people who were buying pret a porter want to see details and workmanship. A neat collection which still had the Versace edge to it but far more sophisticated. This was a great follow on from her resort collection which had already premiered many of the season's popular looks. Versace it seems is heading in a new direction and most buyers seemed impressed and ready to spend again on this collection.

Maison Martin Margiela S|S 2009 'Bon Anniversaire' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Martin Margiela celebrated 20 years on the scene and sent down a collection to rapturous applause. Whilst many were at the show in Paris to celebrate the success and the zany if not completely OTT signature style of the house........many were there to see whether the enigmatic Martin could still serve up a dose of madness. True to his reputation he did not fail........this included sending down a birthday cake of gargantuan proportions down the runway. Wigs, wigs and more wigs covered models faces and created a an eery if not surreal collection. Conceptual in the extreme but with all the technical competence and mastery of a house and designer worthy of celebrating 20 years in fashion.

Gianfranco Ferre S|S 2009 'Geometry' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are the duo from 6267 that have taken over at Ferre. This collection was architectural (not surprising since Mon Ferre did train as an architect) but more then anything it was modern and wearable with the perfect balance of 'show only' pieces and enough separates and suits to be a commercial success. Amazing construction and much better then the job being done at Valentino by Fachinetti...........

D&G S|S 2009 'Cote Azure' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The second line at Dolce & Gabbana, D&G was nautical. Stripes, stars, gold emblems, sailors knots and nautical flags were abound in all the collection. The duo borrowed their inspiration from Coco Chanel........the tweed, stripes and drop waisted dresses were all there. An interesting collection but not sure the 50's maillots are going to be such a hit for the D&G clientele who tend to be young and far more 'out there'.

Balmain S|S 2009 'Bling Rock' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

Christophe Decarnin sent a collection out to the pounding sounds of Madonna. Whilst this opening show to Paris Fashion Week set the tone and energy it was also a flash back to the 80's. The brash and loud designs of Gianni Versace came screaming back at your memory but this collection was anything but a re-hash. It was a clever interpretation with clever and unique details. Two most interesting details stand out and mark my words they are about to be copied pretty soon by many others out there. Firstly the sleeve with the peaked crown was an interesting addition to jackets. The second thing which was an interesting detail was the suede dresses which were left raw and unfinished.......

Dolce & Gabbana S|S 2009 'Pigiama Baroque' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

The actual theme behind the collection were pyjamas! The duo cleverly used traditional masculine shapes and subverted them in the cut and details to create a sexy and sleek collection. There was an interesting mix of fabrics with some garments having up to 5 different types of brocades in the construction. Fluid pyjama weight failles, satins and crepes were combined to create a relaxed feel. Even though some of the garments looked overtly constructed the feel was soft to the touch. Unlike many designers this season the duo wanted to create garments that loooked structured but were still comfortable to wear. Heavily jewelled belts accessorised garments to create cinched waists and the clutch bags became the new jewellery this season for Dolce & Gabbana. Heavily beaded and embellished bags, including ones made from porcupine quills added to the luxe value of the collection........

Bottega Veneta S|S 2009 'Modern American Prairie' Photographer: Marcio Madeira

I love this brand but not the clothes....give me the bags and accessories any day. Maier, the designer said that this season the clothes were not about being ostentatious......I agree Bottega Veneta is not about screaming logos or for the nouveau riche.......its for the discerning......Whilst the leather is the best available in the world and this season the butter soft leather dresses were amazing..the rest could have been a contemporary wardrobe for 'Little House on the Prairie'..........rich women playing poor....................